THE MOST IMPORTANT socialmedia food genre of the past decade is photos of avocado toast, bright and colorful and clean. But innovation is relentless, and the high-contrast gaze has been pushed off timelines by videos like the 35-second review of the Odeon that was posted in the fall by the VIP List, an influencer account (with 480,000 followers across TikTok and Instagram) run by Audrey Jongens and Maeghan Radice. The duo offer scathing takedowns of restaurants they deem to have “peasant” vibes: “This is arguably the most iconic restaurant in New York, and it’s giving nothing but mid!” the voice-over declares. “The kale Caesar was giving low-budget … and the lobster rolls were serving major tuna-salad energy.”
The highest compliment that Jongens and Radice can award any dish is that “it fucks” (an appetizer of warm pull-apart pretzels at Manhatta in the Financial District recently received this important distinction), and a glowing review from a high-follower channel like the VIP List is increasingly more valuable to restaurants than traditional accolades, able to drive customer traffic more immediately while sustaining buzz for months. Restaurateurs are not oblivious to the fact that social media—TikTok especially but also Instagram Reels and even YouTube—it can be an essential restaurant-discovery tool for young diners, and they have started to adopt (or build) their businesses to lure in a new breed of critic who is happy to play the role of ad hoc publicist if it means free food or, in some cases, thousands of dollars in cash. As this new economy has emerged, so too has a set of best practices, ideas, and even ingredients that are optimized to satisfy, above all else, the ever-evolving demands of the FYP algorithm.
Denne historien er fra May 22 - June 04, 2023-utgaven av New York magazine.
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Denne historien er fra May 22 - June 04, 2023-utgaven av New York magazine.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Trapped in Time
A woman relives the same day in a stunning Danish novel.
Polyphonic City
A SOFT, SHIMMERING beauty permeates the images of Mumbai that open Payal Kapadia's All We Imagine As Light. For all the nighttime bustle on display-the heave of people, the constant activity and chaos-Kapadia shoots with a flair for the illusory.
Lear at the Fountain of Youth
Kenneth Branagh's production is nipped, tucked, and facile.
A Belfast Lad Goes Home
After playing some iconic Americans, Anthony Boyle is a beloved IRA commander in a riveting new series about the Troubles.
The Pluck of the Irish
Artists from the Indiana-size island continue to dominate popular culture. Online, they've gained a rep as the \"good Europeans.\"
Houston's on Houston
The Corner Store is like an upscale chain for downtown scene-chasers.
A Brownstone That's Pink Inside
Artist Vivian Reiss's Murray Hill house of whimsy.
These Jeans Made Me Gay
The Citizens of Humanity Horseshoe pants complete my queer style.
Manic, STONED, Throttle, No Brakes
Less than six months after her Gagosian sölu show, the artist JAMIAN JULIANO-VILLAND lost her gallery and all her money and was preparing for an exhibition with two the biggest living American artists.
WHO EVER THOUGHT THAT BRIGHT PINK MEAT THAT LASTS FOR WEEKS WAS A GOOD IDEA?
Deli Meat Is Rotten
