MAY I?” asked our server as she drew a knife down the spine of my dinner. I was at Foul Witch (15 Ave. A, nr. E. 2nd St.; foulwitchnyc.com), the East Village wine bar that opened earlier this year, and a gleaming platter of whole turbot had just arrived at the table. It was placed on a small trivet, sloping the dish slightly so that a sauce of vin jaune pooled to one side. “Because it’s such a rich fish,” she continued, “the juices will constantly collect—you’ll want to baste it as you go along.” She then glazed the otherwise unadorned seafood with additional drippings and began to delicately carve off the fillets. “When you’re ready, we’ll flip the fish over and go to the other side.”
The biggest surprise was not the price, which at $135 was reasonable, I guess, for a “large format” dish designed to serve multiple people at once. Nor was it the fact that this elegant, agreeable tableside presentation was happening inside a downtown establishment run by the people behind the Roberta’s pizza empire. The real detail I couldn’t stop thinking about after the meal was that I’d been able to order turbot at all—an ingredient that, even a decade ago, was practically unseen on New York City menus.
Denne historien er fra April 10 - 23, 2023-utgaven av New York magazine.
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Denne historien er fra April 10 - 23, 2023-utgaven av New York magazine.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Trapped in Time
A woman relives the same day in a stunning Danish novel.
Polyphonic City
A SOFT, SHIMMERING beauty permeates the images of Mumbai that open Payal Kapadia's All We Imagine As Light. For all the nighttime bustle on display-the heave of people, the constant activity and chaos-Kapadia shoots with a flair for the illusory.
Lear at the Fountain of Youth
Kenneth Branagh's production is nipped, tucked, and facile.
A Belfast Lad Goes Home
After playing some iconic Americans, Anthony Boyle is a beloved IRA commander in a riveting new series about the Troubles.
The Pluck of the Irish
Artists from the Indiana-size island continue to dominate popular culture. Online, they've gained a rep as the \"good Europeans.\"
Houston's on Houston
The Corner Store is like an upscale chain for downtown scene-chasers.
A Brownstone That's Pink Inside
Artist Vivian Reiss's Murray Hill house of whimsy.
These Jeans Made Me Gay
The Citizens of Humanity Horseshoe pants complete my queer style.
Manic, STONED, Throttle, No Brakes
Less than six months after her Gagosian sölu show, the artist JAMIAN JULIANO-VILLAND lost her gallery and all her money and was preparing for an exhibition with two the biggest living American artists.
WHO EVER THOUGHT THAT BRIGHT PINK MEAT THAT LASTS FOR WEEKS WAS A GOOD IDEA?
Deli Meat Is Rotten