Attention to Detail

From importing its own seafood to its 300-year-old solid hinoki wood counter, Sushi Taka does not cut corners

- Katelyn Tan

The best representation of the meticulous care that is present at Sushi Taka could be through its tamago yaki (Japanese omelette), typically served at the end of a traditional edomae sushi course. Mastering the egg omelette, while unassuming to the eye, requires years of practise and skill. If you’ve watched the documentary Jiro Dreams of Sushi, there is a memorable scene when an apprentice’s tamago yaki is finally deemed acceptable after 10 years, causing him to break down in tears.

Unlike the cake-like texture I expected, Sushi Taka’s tamago yaki is soft and custardy, with a caramelised crust. Head sushi chef Daichi Yazawa, standing on the opposite side of the sushi counter where I sit alongside Sai Men Chua, executive director of One IFC Hotel Sdn Bhd, the company that owns and operates the restaurant, explains, “Our tamago yaki is made from shiba ebi (baby prawns), eggs, and sweeteners in the form of sugar and honey.”

The tedious part comes into play with a heavy piece of charcoal that is manually held above the pan for an hour. “It is not an easy process. Charcoal has to be used as it provides strong heat from the top to penetrate through the egg,” Yazawa continues. The charcoal is heavy, and requires constant movement and rotation.

“In the case of edomae-style sushi, tamago yaki is considered the most important component,” Yazawa enthuses. “It epitomises whether a chef has served a successful meal.”