Walk on the Wild Side

The Chanel 2023/24 Métiers d'Art collection was unveiled last December in Manchester. Tatler delves into why the curation continues to be viewed as one of the most captivating shows on the packed global fashion show schedule

- Ahy Choi

It was two weeks before Christmas, and Manchester was gearing up to host an unlikely throng of guests from around the world who had travelled to the British city at Chanel’s invitation. With its grey skies, pouring rain and heavy traffic, Manchester is not a city that easily wins you over. And yet there is something captivating about its atmosphere.

The city holds a significant place in history as one of the birthplaces of the industrial revolution. It is also the origin of some of the most influential post-punk bands, including The Smiths, New Order and Joy Division, whose music defined much of the British music scene in the Seventies and Eighties. The city housed one of the most influential record companies, Factory Records, where design legend Peter Saville produced numerous enduring record cover designs that continue to inspire many to this day; Chanel invited him to create a special logo for the December show.

This innovative air is precisely why Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, was drawn to Manchester, despite its seemingly tenuous connection to high fashion. “For me, Manchester is the city of music,” says Viard. “It incites creation.”

Métiers d’Art, an annual collection initiated in 2001 by the late fashion legend and Chanel creative director Karl Lagerfeld, honours the artisans that contribute their craftsmanship to the maison’s creations. Chanel started acquiring small ateliers in the 1980s—some of which have existed for more than a century—and in 1997 established Paraffection, a subsidiary that serves as an umbrella organisation for these smaller brands. Over the years, the fleet of artisan workshops expanded, culminating in the establishment of Le19M in 2022—an ambitious undertaking that brought together 11 maisons d’art under one roof.