The Craftsmanship of Japanese Cuisine

Nipponophiles are in for an epicurean treat with these three haute Japanese restaurants that are enthralling diners with precise cooking techniques and seasonal produce.

- KENNETH SZ GOH & TAN PIN YEN

KAISEKI
ZENIYA SINGAPORE Level 24, Shangri-La Singapore 22 Orange Grove Road, zeniya.com.sg

An ethereal piece of lotus leaf wafts on the pristine hinoki wood counter, cradling the tsukuri (sashimi course) of refreshingly sweet shima ebi, maguro, hata, and ika somen.

Moments before this, a chef deftly sliced a slab of hamo (conger eel), breaking down the minuscule bones with a satisfying snap. It is then cooked in a dashi concocted with bonito and aged kombu.

Partaking in a kaiseki meal is like enjoying opera, quips Shinichiro Takagi, chef-owner and executive chef of Zeniya Singapore, a contemporary kaiseki restaurant that opened in August. The second-generation chef, who studied in the United States, says in English: “Kaiseki is all about theatre-style acting and creating an atmosphere that weaves in the complex story of Japanese history, culture, and food.”

The 43-seater restaurant is the Singapore outpost of the two Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant, Zeniya in Kanazawa, which was founded in 1970. Zeniya Singapore, which is a partnership with Shangri-La Singapore and restaurant group Les Amis, is one of the more prolific imports in Singapore’s competitive Japanese dining scene this year.

Staying true to its Kanazawa roots, about 90 per cent of the produce is sourced from the city in Ishikawa prefecture and flown here two to three times a week. Takagi says: “Every morning, my brother Jiro or I will go to the local market in Kanazawa. We also visit the seaport and talk to farmers to understand what the best ingredients are for the day. The menu at our restaurant in Singapore depends on this.”