In the shadow of the mighty Annapurna

The unusual charm of trekking to Mardi Himal in the rainy season

- SHYAM SARAN

The Himalayan range stretching across the northern frontiers of Nepal is home to some of the most breathtaking and spectacular snowpeaks, including, of course, Mount Everest itself. One of my favourites is the Annapurna massif, a cluster of high peaks, within whose folds are dense green forests, lovingly protected by its gentle communities. This vast expanse of high mountains, forests and swift rivers constitutes the Annapurna Conservation Zone, set up in 1986, which has remained a rare and protected nature sanctuary for several decades.

The Annapurna circuit is a better-known trekking trail, served by simple mountain lodges and homestays run by the local people. Five star and luxury tourism has been deliberately shunned. People residing in the conservation zone have been assisted in upgrading their simple village buildings, adding westernstyle toilets and solar-powered showers. Village youth serve as guides and porters. Lodge owners have also been trained by the trust managing the zone to offer a simple but wholesome menu of local Nepali food as well as international cuisine, including pizza, pasta, and even apple pie. It is for good reason that among trekkers, the Annapurna trail is also called the Apple Pie Trail.

I had walked the Annapurna trail several years ago and still retain vivid memories of the great peaks of the Annapurna and the dramatic Machapuchare, or the Fishtail peak, seemingly within touching distance from their respective base camps. Earlier this month I returned to the conservation area, but for a shorter inner circuit, which took me to the Mardi Himal, a peak just below the Fishtail.