Paradise Cove
ONE of the first things I see on arrival at Paradise Cove is a wet paint sign: crude, all-caps scrawl tacked onto the glass of a door edged in freshly daubed canary-yellow emulsion. This is not unusual. Restaurant critics, like visiting royals, tend to live out their days in rooms haunted by the whiff of hurriedly applied Dulux.
But at this Battersea spot, that wet paint sign feels symbolic of a broader recent history of premature closure and perpetual renewal. Originally founded in 2020 as Sugarcane, Tarell "Chef Tee" Mcintosh's Caribbean-inspired restaurant is perhaps best known for the hard luck trials it has had to endure in the intervening years.
This is the place that launched a successful crowdfund after a 2022 burglary left Mcintosh with just £34, and also the place that had to shut two outlets last year after a ruinous legal dispute over its original name.
Denne historien er fra January 31, 2024-utgaven av Evening Standard.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra January 31, 2024-utgaven av Evening Standard.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Don't Want Botox? Then Try These Alternatives
From microcurrents to lasers, there are other ways to tackle ageing skin, says Madeleine Spencer
It's high time the Borthwick regime delivers on promise
England boss needs a statement win and the All Blacks are up first
Bukayo Saka
The making of a London icon
Even Ridley Scott thinks our big screens are epic
Outernet is now one of London's top attractions --but the man behind it isn't resting on his laurels
Laura Bailey on why Margate is her favourite escape in the UK
Incredible light, sea air, galleries galore and only two hours from Victoria: it's the model and photographer's dreamland...
The Old Operating Theatre
St Thomas Street, SE1
Can drugs like Ozempic really help to getthe economy firing again?
Labour's plan to give the unemployed weight-loss jabs may have unintended consequences, reports William Hosie
AI is the new frontier of perfumery...But just how fragrantare these scents?
Choosing a signature scent is a highly personal experience. Not only do preferences differ greatly, but certain perfumes react differently depending on your skin. Bergamot top notes may be intoxicating on one person's wrist, but seem soapy on another.
Is it time to ditch the apps and embrace the science of love at first sight?
The chemistry of love isn't just a romantic ideal - it's a scientific reality, discovers
A poetic puzzlebox
This lyrical novel sets out to dazzle and terrify