They are innocuous, omnipresent words, but they can cause W even the most determinedly optimistic of diners to emit a low groan and pinch the bridge of their noses like weary TV detectives. Because you can see it all already, can't you? You can see the little dish of Gordal olives and the neat shoal of Cantabrian anchovies adrift in a pool of golden oil; you can see the back-troubling bar stools cast in flickering candlelight and the rows of irreverently labelled skin-contact wines called things like Juicy Bastard. It can feel like a kind of human-initiated AI; a digitally flattened, copycat environment where, from Malmö to Melbourne, restaurateurs of a certain age are all endlessly extrapolating on the same half-a-dozen previously successful ideas and motifs.
Denne historien er fra January 24, 2024-utgaven av Evening Standard.
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Denne historien er fra January 24, 2024-utgaven av Evening Standard.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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