Spring on the plate

Noodles made of bottle gourd, or spanakopita made of amaranth leaves or a bruschetta with baingan bharta. Read on to know how vegetables can rule our plates and palates

- MINI RIBEIRO

In the SEASON of colour, when nature is resplendent with hues of all kinds, it is time to celebrate the ample bounties meant for the palate. Indian diets are predominantly vegetarian, and include a plethora of vegetables, mostly local and seasonal. From a sarson ka saag to potoler dolma, bagara baingan to a beans poriyal and a gobhi matar to a cabbage footpath, vegetables are cooked daily in most homes.

Strangely, however, Indian cuisine has an ambivalent relationship with cooking of vegetables. We know the colours and textures of vegetables are important for appearance, as well as their nutrients, yet usually vegetables are overdone, doused with spices and copious amounts of oil, with the actual vegetable, losing its flavour and identity.

Exercising caution is important. Chef Megha Kohli, Café Mez, Gurgaon, analyses, "In Indian cuisine, while spices are integral to creating complex and rich flavours, using them judiciously is important to avoid overpowering the natural taste and appearance of the produce. It's crucial to strike a balance so that the spices enhance, rather than dominate the dish."

How chefs get it right

Chefs unanimously agree that understanding vegetables and cooking them accordingly, is the key. According to Niyati Rao, head chef & partner, Ekaa, Mumbai, "We just need to know our vegetables better. I target each vegetable differently. I also think that not cooking veggies for a prolonged period helps.

You can blanch spinach and then shock it in ice water later, which really preserves the bright green colour. I make this wonderful morning glory salad, where I blanch it for maybe 10 seconds, shock it in ice and then serve it after draining all the water with a tamarind dressing. It has the most beautiful texture crunchy, not overcooked or mushy and with a bright green colour."