Looking for that perfect beach along the NH66

With its picturesque towns, villages and views of the sea, the NH66 symbolises escape, discovery and hope

- Anita Rao Kashi

Standing near Karwar, the wide NH66 runs straight till the horizon. It sounds like the famous US Route 66, but on the map, the two couldn't be more different. Where Route 66 stretches across the US, NH66 snakes its way along the west coast of India, hugging the seashore with the verdant Western Ghats rising on the other side. It weaves through towns, villages, hamlets and farmlands but the sea is never far away. And yet, NH66, or at least the Karnataka bit from Karwar to Mangaluru (about 320km), with its abundance of temple towns, picturesque fishing villages, seaside idylls and hidden beaches, is about escape, discovery and hope. Much like the way US Route 66 is symbolised in books, movies and TV shows.

The road is busy through most of the year since it connects India's southernmost tip (Kanyakumari) with Mumbai, and is home to bustling temple towns such as Udupi, Gokarna and Murudeshwar. During the monsoon, the traffic abates a bit and the clouds, rain and views make it quite dramatic, the ideal time for a coastal drive and to find that perfect beach.

With great hope, I roll into Karwar town and come to a screeching halt at the crowded beach just off the main road. It feels like the whole town has turned up for the weekend. Pushcarts and sundry vendors are doing brisk business. I duck into the relatively deserted Warship Museum on naval history. Later I catch a half-hearted sunset—blurry sun sinks into a thick grey soupy sea. It is a bit disappointing but I console myself with a smashing fish meal at Swetha Lunch Home.

The next morning, a 20-minute boat ride takes me to Devbagh island off the Karwar coast. It is secluded and full of pine trees and nothing much to do. On a sunny day, the beach might have been promising but it is very grey and everything is so monochromatic, it is almost melancholic.