A three-hour drive east from the bustling streets of Seoul, a checkpoint marks the beginning of a journey to one of the most heavily militarised borders in the world. The military police scrutinise personal identification against a pre-approved list before granting passage.
It is here, in Goseong county, in a restricted section alongside the demilitarised zone (DMZ) on the border with North Korea, that South Korea hopes to promote a literal path to peace.
The 3.6km Goseong route is one of a dozen DMZ peace trails along the border that have opened to tourists this year - Koreans only, for now encouraging them to explore the idea of unity through hikes in restricted areas offering direct views into the secretive North.
The Korean war ended in July 1953 with an armistice but not a peace treaty, meaning the North and South are still theoretically at war.
On the Goseong route, an eerie calm prevails. The peaceful beach appears undisturbed. The guide shares tales of wildlife encounters; at one point, there's even the chance to pat puppies born from one of the dogs gifted by North Korean leader Kim Jong-un to former president Moon Jae-in after their historic summit in 2018.
Yet, there are signs that betray an underlying unease: a range featuring human-shaped practice targets, watchtowers, a military police escort.
Denne historien er fra November 10, 2023-utgaven av The Guardian Weekly.
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Denne historien er fra November 10, 2023-utgaven av The Guardian Weekly.
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