Recipes for survival Running a takeaway in Iraq
The Guardian|August 31, 2024
The town of Qaim lies on the border of Iraq and Syria, close to the Euphrates River. Near the central market, Alhan al-Salmani, who has six children and a harrowing history, runs her kitchen, Al-Eiz.
Noor Al-Khateeb
Recipes for survival Running a takeaway in Iraq

The place is full of women, with 12 sitting on the ground next to a vast tanoor, a traditional clay oven.

On the right, pots full of rice and meat simmer on the fire, while the smell of kubba - an Iraqi dish of minced meat packed in rice - draws you in. It takes time to prepare it and about 200 plates a day are made and sent out.

Salmani, 50, manager and chef, stands, gently offering guidance.

Al-Eiz is Qaim's first takeaway, supplying meals to farmers, militia from Iraq's Popular Mobilisation Forces, workers at NGOs, and the 3,000 households headed by women, mainly widows, who live in the town. People phone in their orders and either pick up their food or have taxi drivers collect it.

Khitam Hammad, who works for the International Rescue Committee, gets her lunch from Al-Eiz. "Alhan's food reminds me of my grandmother's food," she says.

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