Joy, pain and awkward truth behind every climber's tale
The Independent|November 11, 2024
Everest is there for the conquering but Rod Ardehali finds distressing stories of overcrowding, pollution and locals who disappear from view after helping climbers reach their dream
Rod Ardehali
Joy, pain and awkward truth behind every climber's tale

The short flight from Kathmandu to Lukla offers the first true sense of the expedition's scale. Stretching for thousands of miles in each direction, the breathtaking vistas of the Himalayas deliver an ominous glimpse into the thrilling terrain awaiting the 12 of us, who have arrived from across the globe with one shared ambition.

Through one of the few small windows of our twin-engined aircraft, we witness vast rolling hills and frozen waterfalls etched into the face of the Khumbu Valley, where, very soon, we will be trekking to our ultimate destination: Everest Base Camp, some 5,364m above sea level.

However, before we begin our ascent, first we must navigate Lukla’s airport. Home to the world’s shortest runway, the 527m landing strip slopes steeply down the side of a cliff and marks the gateway to the Everest region.

Each year it welcomes hundreds of thousands of climbers, trekkers and thrillseekers in search of adventure. But beyond being an extreme adventure playground, there is a growing tension at the heart of Everest. Reports emerge each season of overcrowding at the summit and plastic pollution across the ranges. Distressing stories of climbers dying due to long queues in the notorious “death zone” are remarkable now only for their predictability.

Meanwhile, tales of luxury goods such as hot tubs, flatscreen TVs, electric heaters and coffee machines carried to the peak by privately hired local porters are all too familiar within the climbing community. Porters who are all too quickly erased from the stories of climbers basking in the glory of their successful expeditions.

With that in mind, I’ve also come to see how this region – which remains sacred to the Indigenous Nepali and Tibetan communities living at high altitudes – exists alongside the booming adventure tourism industry that brings both income and aggravation to this stunning region.

Denne historien er fra November 11, 2024-utgaven av The Independent.

Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.

Denne historien er fra November 11, 2024-utgaven av The Independent.

Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.

FLERE HISTORIER FRA THE INDEPENDENTSe alt
The Extremism Of Trump's Pick For Intelligence Chief
The Independent

The Extremism Of Trump's Pick For Intelligence Chief

Tulsi Gabbard made the journey from anti-war Democrat to Moscow-friendly Maga warrior. Rich Hall looks at how

time-read
9 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Will Labour Party Mps Get Behind Pm's Welfare Blitz?
The Independent

Will Labour Party Mps Get Behind Pm's Welfare Blitz?

Labour's blitz on benefits comes with some eye-catching language from the prime minister, announced in The Mail on Sunday. He has warned of Britain's "bulging benefits bill blighting our society" as he vows to cut the £137bn cost.

time-read
2 mins  |
November 25, 2024
England hammer Japan to end vexing autumn on high
The Independent

England hammer Japan to end vexing autumn on high

After a November of frets and frustration came a chance for fun and frolics for England.

time-read
4 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Verstappen pulls up next to F1 elite with his fourth title
The Independent

Verstappen pulls up next to F1 elite with his fourth title

Dutch driver seals championship under lights of Las Vegas

time-read
3 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Treasure's chest! Salah stars for Reds in comeback win
The Independent

Treasure's chest! Salah stars for Reds in comeback win

Liverpool moved eight points clear at the top of the Premier League yesterday as Mohamed Salah scored twice to help them come from behind to beat Southampton 3-2 at St Mary’s.

time-read
2 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Amorim kicks-off United role with lacklustre draw
The Independent

Amorim kicks-off United role with lacklustre draw

Ruben Amorim can at least remind himself that Manchester United’s best managers have had worse starts.

time-read
4 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Have I got time to get a new passport for trip to Europe?
The Independent

Have I got time to get a new passport for trip to Europe?

Q My passport expires in July 2025. Is the Passport Office doing renewals quickly these days? If not, when is the best time? I intend to go to Europe before March.

time-read
1 min  |
November 25, 2024
Far-right populist leads in Romanian presidential vote
The Independent

Far-right populist leads in Romanian presidential vote

A far-right populist took the lead in Romania's presidential election yesterday and will probably face leftist prime minister Marcel Ciolacu in a runoff in two weeks, an outcome that rocked the country's political landscape.

time-read
3 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Three held after prominent Israeli rabbi killed in Dubai
The Independent

Three held after prominent Israeli rabbi killed in Dubai

Emirati police question men as Iran denies any involvement

time-read
2 mins  |
November 25, 2024
Lab test monkeys are flown to UK 'injured and terrified'
The Independent

Lab test monkeys are flown to UK 'injured and terrified'

Monkeys flown into the UK for laboratory testing were so badly injured that their crates were smeared with blood, photographs suggest.

time-read
3 mins  |
November 25, 2024