THUNDERING IN A HULKING mine-spec truck into the tiny township of Laura, roughly a 320km drive north-west of Cairns, in Far North Queensland, seems excessive at first but I soon understand the need for such grunt. On leaving the bitumen, we venture south-west into the eastern corner of the Cape York Peninsula along the formidable heritage-listed Laura to Maytown Coach Road. It's revered as one of Australia's toughest four-wheel-drive tracks, but to Kuku Yalanji Traditional Owner (TO) Johnny Murison, it's the route of his twice-weekly commute. "We call it the 'Thousand Dollar Track', because that's what you'll need to fix your car after you drive it," he says, laughing.
Johnny guides tours into Western Yalanji Country, which forms part of Quinkan Country, with his company Jarramali Rock Art Tours. From Laura, it takes about an hour and a half to reach Camp Jarramali, where we will be based for the next two days. The final 10km is particularly rough and slow going. The landscape buckles and folds around us as we weave through Quinkan Country, past rugged tangles of savannah and the stands of desert bloodwood, stringybark, ironwood and melaleuca trees that skirt the towering sandstone escarpments nearby.
Johnny calls out to his ancestors as we approach Western Yalanji Country, which stretches from the headwaters of the Palmer and Mitchell rivers to lands surrounding Laura, and is home to 26 family groups from 10 clans. It covers about 7610sq.km in total and forms part of the larger footprint of exclusive and non-exclusive native title and freehold land that makes up Quinkan Reserve.
Denne historien er fra Australian Geographic #173-utgaven av Australian Geographic Magazine.
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Denne historien er fra Australian Geographic #173-utgaven av Australian Geographic Magazine.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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SULAWESI SENSATIONS
There are worlds within worlds and marvels untold waiting to be experienced on Indonesia's remote islands.
SEARCHING FOR AUSSIE DINOSAURS
Our understanding of where to find ancient life in Australia has been turned on its head by a new appreciation of the country's geology. Now the world is looking to our vast outback as the latest hotspot to locate fossils.
THE HARDEST NIGHT
The first Australian ascent of Mt Everest in 1984 is one of the great feats of mountaineering. Climbed by a small team semi-alpine style, with no bottled oxygen, via the Great (Norton) Couloir, it remains unrepeated 40 years later.
WEDGE-TAILED WONDER
The chance discovery of an eagle nest leads to an extended vigil observing normally hidden behaviours of one of nature's supreme winged marvels.
BURDENED BY BEAUTY
Northern Australia's Gouldian finch survives in huge numbers in cages around the world, but its wild population continues to struggle.
A TELESCOPE FOR A GOLDEN AGE
After a stellar 50 years as one of the country's major scientific assets, the AAT continues to play a major role in keeping Australian astronomy on the world stage.
COCKY WHISPERING AT COOMALLO CREEK
This patch of remnant bush on the edge of the West Australian wheatbelt is a place loved by one of Australia's rarest bird species and the man who has studied the site for more than 50 years.
A PIONEERING PAIR
Louisa Atkinson and her mother, Charlotte, were among Australia's earliest authors, and pioneers in women's rights.
THE LONGEST WALK
Lucy Barnard is walking from Argentina to Alaska -the length of the Americas - on an extraordinary journey of endurance and adventure.
SECLUDED, BUT NOT ALONE
In an era of heightened social isolation, where many of us lead lonely lives, Dangar Island offers the chance to be part of a supportive, connected community.
