ALL THINGS ICE

THREE ADVENTURERS TACKLE THE STONEMAN GLACIARA, AN ROUTE THROUGH INCREDIBLE THE SWISS ALPS THAT TAKES IN EUROPE'S BIGGEST GLACIER

- Gerhard Czerner

Sweat trickles down my forehead and into my ear. I try to keep my pedalling rhythm steady as the bumpy logging road becomes noticeably steeper. Taking a quick look down, I'm relieved to see I still have one sprocket left. I'm breathing so hard I can't talk. Sneaking a look over my shoulder, I see the valley floor far below. My partner Caroline is right behind me. It's our first time in Valais, but inspiring stories and copious research have given us an idea of how magnificent the view must be from the top of the gigantic Aletsch glacier. Since breakfast we've been wondering whether it'll live up to expectations. We keep climbing, filled with anticipation.

Punch it

I'd got to know the founder of Stoneman Trails, Roland Stauder, many years ago on the original Stoneman tour in the Dolomites, and our paths have crossed countless times since. His name is synonymous with outstanding rides packed with extraordinary experiences there are already five different tours bearing the Stoneman logo. When he told me about his project in Switzerland, the Glaciara, I knew immediately that I had to do it. Caroline has also ridden Roland's Dolomites tour and trusts his ability to put together an unforgettable route, so the trip is on.

We arrive in Bellwald in the southern Swiss canton of Valais, a delightful place with its car-free village centre and sun-blackened wooden houses, and pick up our starter pack for the Glaciara at the issuing office in the hotel. The most important part of the pack is the punch card - it needs to be marked at six different checkpoints so we can be awarded our coveted Stoneman trophy. We decide to do the tour over three days, to give us time to enjoy the countryside. This means we'll be getting the bronze trophy. Those who do the tour in two get silver and the gold is awarded to riders who conquer it in a single day.