To step into an Italian summer is to step into an oven. It's an unrelenting furnace, under whose sky, an event is staged twice annually that discards the daily routine of the city of Siena. That is, of course, if Siena has a routine for the rest of the year.
In the days leading up to the Palio dell'Assunta (the Palio di Siena's August edition), it's hard to imagine this city ever recovers an equilibrium. So fierce is the rivalry, I will meet a resident whose mother, having married into his father's contrada, is effectively moved out of the house for a week.
A contrada - or contrade plural are the city districts battling it out in this most violent of contests (10 of the 17 contrade compete each time). It's a spectacle with its roots in the 17th century, thus staking a claim to be the oldest continually running horse race in the world.
I arrive the morning before, walking uphill through streets bedecked with district flags (each contrada is but a few blocks in depth). Tonight will see a penultimate trial, with three laps of the Piazza del Campo: the city's central square, where tomorrow's main event will be staged. The six trials are Palios all but in name, with a parade of carabinieri proceeding the off (this year, to male gasps and female cheers, the parade is led by a policewoman).
The centre of the 'racecourse' is packed sardine-style with thousands of spectators. Similarities end, however, when the starting rope comes down, and no more than a canter breaks out. The same horses and jockeys will ride in the main contest, and all are conscious to avoid injuries. In the days leading up to the race, horses and jockeys are guarded 24/7 to avoid interference from rivals.
Denne historien er fra September 2023-utgaven av Racing Ahead.
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Denne historien er fra September 2023-utgaven av Racing Ahead.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Tragedy Hits Racing Family - Nick Townsend reels from shock attack on John Hunt's wife and daughters
Nick Townsend reels from shock attack on John Hunt's wife and daughters. I will be far from alone in recent days in being overcome by emotions ranging from utter disbelief to revulsion upon hearing of the unspeakable acts perpetrated upon John Hunt's family, resulting in the death of his wife Carol and daughters, Hannah and Louise.
AUDIENCE IS ERUPTING
John Anthony reveals the latest top speedsters after another Glorious Goodwood
HORSE OF A LIFETIME
Graham Buddry pays fresh tribute to track legend Sea The Stars - surely one of the greatest ever
IT'S TIME TO TAKE STOCK
Paul Jacobs looks forward to seeing some big on-track questions answered
PLAYING TO THE WHISTLE
lan Heitman flies about to keep pace with a rush of two-year-old Flat action
WINNING JOY ON A BUDGET
Richard Eagle takes a trip to Windsor to check out peoples' route into the port of kings
GIFT HORSES AND FRENCH LESSONS
Robert Cooper finds 'retirement' is keeping him busy
FEUD GETS THE PARTY ROLLING
Karl Hedley savours the Galway Festival action and picks out the summer highlights at Ballybrit
ROCKING THE MONEY BAGS
Simon Nott reveals his recent experiences from trips to Brighton and Ascot
FLYING EVE'S BORN TO WIN
Nick Townsend talks to in-form trainer Eve Johnson Houghton