"THE TESTICLE IS AS FAR AS I'LL GO,"
says Auja, widening her striking green-grey eyes. "It's common for people to eat the penis of the sheep too, but we're not quite there yet."
The testicle in question is sitting in the middle of my plate. It's surprisingly large: a boiled sheeny sack, bulked out with lamb and accompanied by garden peas, potatoes, sheep kidney, a slice of bull tongue and a small piece of sheep oesophagus. Elsewhere on the table, there's a plate of laufabrauð - thin, crispy flatbread that's been deep-fried in sheep fat - plus a pan of floury white sauce, which I'm told pairs perfectly with the sheep's throat. It's unlike any lunch I've ever had, but I'd been warned to expect surprises in Iceland.
It's approaching midday in Berufjörður, a fjord close to the town of Djúpivogur on Iceland's remote east coast. Here, Auðbjörg Stefánsdóttir (Auja) and her husband Steinþór Björnsson own a farm and a threestorey house, a white speck cocooned within a vast, isolated landscape of spruce trees and fog-covered volcanic mountains.
The drive from Egilsstaðir, the largest settlement in east Iceland, takes an hour, and for most of the journey on this cold Saturday morning in late November, there isn't another car in sight. Yet, in contrast to its remote location, the Stefánsdóttir-Björnsson home seems full of life, be it music, children playing or the smell of something cooking.
For lunch, we're joined by six of the couple's eight children; Lilja (19), Anna (16), Stefán (13), Karólína (11), Gunna (7) and Gudmundur (5), as well as Auja's father, another Stefán. Meanwhile, the farm, which was built by Steinþór's parents in 1954, is also home to 215 cows, 54 sheep and two outdoor cats, Fluffy and Honey, who, apparently, despise each other.
Denne historien er fra Spring 2023-utgaven av National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra Spring 2023-utgaven av National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
DIRECTORY
Lush Paul Valley, located at the foot of the COVA crater, is surrounded by rocky peaks, constituting one of the most spectacular landscapes of the island of Santo Antão.
CLIMBING KILIMANJARO
To summit Kilimanjaro is an expedition of a lifetime. Whether you're a seasoned mountaineer or a first-timer, there are key questions to consider before tackling the Tanzanian peak.
SEARCHING FOR BIGFOOT
TO VISIT OREGON IS TO EMBRACE THE ELEMENTAL POSSIBILITY OF BIGFOOT, THE HAIRY, HUMAN-LIKE MYTHICAL CREATURE. THE PROSPECT AND THRILL OF THE CHASE MAKES THE AREA'S THICK FORESTS, GURGLING CREEKS AND SCENIC HIKING TRAILS A TRUE WALK ON THE WILD SIDE.
FOR THE BIRDS
A visit to the Scottish Highlands offers one of the best bird- and wildlife-watching experiences in the UK, with the promise of rare encounters with unique species.
ON THE WATER
From swimming to standup paddleboarding, boating to biking, here's how to have the ultimate adventure on and around six of world's most beautiful lakes.
HOW I GOT THE SHOT
PHOTOGRAPHER MATT DUTILE ON SNAPPING THE FROZEN CONTINENT'S CHARISMATIC WILDLIFE FOR OUR MAY ISSUE
THE EVOLVING GAP YEAR
FROM ENHANCING A CV TO BENEFITTING A LOCAL COMMUNITY OR TRAVELLING WITH PURPOSE, THE MOTIVES FOR STUDENTS TO TAKE A GAP YEAR ARE INCREASINGLY NUANCED.
VALLETTA
In Malta’s harbour-framed capital, a rich and evolving art scene unfolds among honeyed baroque facades, echoing the global influences that have shaped the city over the centuries
A timeless city
Wander through artistic alleyways and along modern beachfronts in South Korea’s second city — a place where tradition and innovationgo hand in hand.
SANDS OF TIME
COVERING AROUND 800,000 SQUARE MILES, ALGERIA'S SHARE OF THE SAHARA TAKES UP OVER 80% OF THE COUNTRY - THE VOLCANIC PEAKS, CANYONS AND VAST SAND SEAS FORM A STRIKING BACKDROP TO OASIS CITIES AND UNIQUE NORTH AFRICAN CULTURES
