"I've been here 40 years," says Satinder Singh. "Everyone wants a glass of sweet, salty nimbu pani." Standing in the baking sun at Satinder's street stall in South Mumbai's historic Fort neighbourhood, his rehydrating lime soda cannot come quickly enough.
I'm touring the downtown Colaba area with Pooja Madan Kathuria, a guide of nine years who was born and raised in Mumbai. We're on the Bombay (as the city is still known by many) Express walking route arranged by A Chef's Tour, a company specialising in group and private street food tours around Asia. "People are often sceptical about street food," says Pooja. "And most do this tour on their last day. They should do it on their first."
I couldn't agree more. Street food is a defining feature of Mumbai culture and a deep-dive into its myriad forms is essential to understanding the city's intense appreciation for food. Pooja leads me to a vada pav stand by the Telegraph Building at Churchgate Station. Now run by second and third generations, it's been dishing up deep-fried mashed potato dumplings (vada) in a bun (pav) with garlicky chutney and green chilli to Mumbaikars since 1971. The dish dates back much further, however. Locals will tell you it was vada vendor Ashok Vaidya who first spotted a fellow seller serving omelette pav in 1866 and championed a combo of the two.
Denne historien er fra June 2024-utgaven av National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Denne historien er fra June 2024-utgaven av National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
HOW I GOT THE SHOT
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THE STATE OF ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL
FOR DISABLED PEOPLE, TR AVEL CAN PRESENT M ANY CHALLENGES, SUCH A S LOST WHEELCHAIRS AND POORLY TR AINED STAFF — BUT A NEW GOVERNMENT TA SK FORCE OFFERS HOPE.
BREAKING THE ICE
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THE WORLD'S BEST TRAIN TRIPS
Glimpses of local life caught through the window, moments of connection with your fellow passengers, the chance to slow down and watch landscapes unfold with the miles - train journeys are the most memorable way of getting from A to B. From luxury heritage routes to regular services passing through extraordinary scenery, here's our pick of the best
HEAVEN &EARTH
IN PORTUGAL'S WILD NORTHERN BORDERLANDS, SURVIVAL AND SPIRITUALITY GO HAND IN HAND WITH THE CHANGING SEASONS, AS THEY HAVE FOR MILLENNIA. A ROAD TRIP THROUGH ITS REMOTE REACHES UNCOVERS PAGAN FESTIVALS, AGE-OLD CRAFTS AND ROMAN RELICS IN THE COUNTRY'S ONLY NATIONAL PARK, PENEDA-GERÊS
HONG KONG
It may be best known for its skyscrapers and shopping, but Hong Kong offers untold outdoor activities, from coastal kayaking and mountain hikes to quiet bike rides and unusual food tours
Joe Boyd
A GLIMPSE OF AN ALBANIAN FOLK MUSIC FESTIVAL, CAUGHT ILLICITLY ON FILM, TRANSPORTS THE MUSIC PRODUCER INTO A LIFE LED BY ANCIENT RHYTHMS
Passion project
AS THE PROMISE OF SPRING BRINGS RENEWED VIGOUR, WE TURN TO STORIES OF LIFELONG OBSESSIONS AND POWERFUL LABOURS OF LOVE
Lighthouse solitude
PLAY CASTAWAY ON AN ITALIAN ISLAND, WHERE YOU CAN SPOT WHALES FROM A STYLISH TUSCAN RETREAT SET IN A WORKING LIGHTHOUSE
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