Hidden In HOKKAIDO

MY JOURNEY TO JAPAN WAS NOT MERELY about sightseeing or ticking off a destination from a bucket list. Instead, it was a personal quest to uncover the untold human story from an offbeat place.

Hokkaido, with its captivating landscapes and untamed wilderness, beckoned me with promises of hidden treasures waiting to be discovered. Yet, amidst the grandeur of nature lay a lesser-known gem—the ancient Ainu people. Intrigued by their rich heritage, I embarked on a journey to the heart of Ainu territory, eager to immerse myself in their world.

As I entered deep into the forests of Biratori in Central Hokkaido, I felt a sense of excitement and anticipation to uncover the ancient Ainu hunting techniques. Before entering this sacred space, a ritual began—pouring sacred sake (rice wine) on to the "inau," a symbolic fire stick adorned with wood shavings. Guided by two Ainu experts, Tokuji Mombetsu and Misaki Kimura, both in their late thirties, clad in traditional "Amip"—an Ainu robe made from the bark of Manchurian Elm decorated with unique thread and cloth patterns and matching hairbands, I observed a centuries old form of worship known as "Kamuinomi." The ritual underscores the deep spiritual connection that the Ainu have with nature and the divine. Tokuji explained to me, "Before we enter the forest or mountain, we pay our respects to our kumay (Gods) and seek their permission." He also added, "We don't waste anything; we only take what we need."

For the next four hours after the Kamuinomi, I delved into the Ainu hunting methods, learning about the traps they crafted to capture wild animals using bows and arrows. Despite modern restrictions on hunting and fishing, the pride in their Ainu heritage remained palpable. Tokuji can't go back to his Ainu ways of living, but he is content with the fact that at least he doesn't have to hide his identity anymore.

AGAINST THE TIDE OF TIME