HAVING GROWN UP with a deep fear of the ocean, my initial reaction after jumping into the bay was, frankly, terror. Salt water flooded my snorkel, making me gag. Below the surface, monumental forms drifted like icebergs. Two whale sharks, the largest fish on the planet, glided around me, their blue-gray skin a Morse code of chalky dots and dashes.
But then my guide, Yoyok Hariawan, took my hand in the water, which instantly calmed me. As we bobbed on the surface together, he pointed out the animals' distinctively shaped caudal fins, their unexpectedly cartoonish smiles, and their preternatural grace. The two specimens, though juveniles, each measured more than 20 feet in length. As I watched them, my fear faded into quiet awe.
We were floating in the choppy waters near Indonesia's Komodo National Park in Saleh Bay, one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks up close. One of these magnificent creatures had a weathered satellite transmitter bolted onto its dorsal fin, most likely attached by the nonprofit Conservation International, which started tagging these endangered animals in the country in 2015.
Whale sharks are a mysterious species, and despite tagging efforts like the one we witnessed, much about them, from their breeding habits to their maximum size, remains unknown. Their dark upper bodies and white bellies provide camouflage from both above and below, allowing them to seemingly pop out of nowhere and disappear again.
Denne historien er fra September 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
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Denne historien er fra September 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Family Values - Gay father and blogger Jonathan Bailey shares his proudest moments of traveling with his partner and daughters.
My partner and I grew up in families that didn't travel a lot, so we've always had a sense of wanderlust. Before we had kids, we traveled together, and it was life-changing-travel opened our minds to different ways of life.In 2000, Triton and I decided to have kids. At the time, my mom had terminal cancer, and we were all about connecting with family. We wanted to adopt, because we felt like there were so many children in the world who needed love and a good home. In 2002, my mom passed away, and Sophia was born two weeks later. We welcomed our second daughter, Ava, in 2004.
Back to Sri Lanka - The past few years have not been easy on this alluring South Asian island. But on a return visit, Prasad Ramamurthy finds a place-and a people-on the upswing.
I was at the end of a five-day journey that had begun in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, in southwestern Sri Lanka, and taken me across the southern tip of the island to the leopard reserve of Yala National Park. In between I had taken in the dramatic coastline of Weligama and had stopped for some beach time in Hiriketiya. Sri Lanka is a country I'm particularly fond of, so when I was asked to revisit to report this story, I seized the opportunity. Yes, I was dying to go back, but I'd had another motive for coming: I wanted to see if the island nation was ready to welcome international visitors again.
Experiences: Hands On - Single-malt whiskies and triple-cream cheeses are the stuff New York's Hudson Valley is made of.
The Hudson Valley has long drawn New York City dwellers in search of clean air, spectacular hikes, and upstate culture. Now a budding community of artisans-young farmers, bakers, vintners, distillers-is turning the region into a modern breadbasket.It is a tightly woven ecosystem that also extends to restaurants and hotels. At Tenmile Distillery, in the town of Wassaic, for example, the grain used to make whiskey comes from a farm in Tivoli, 30 miles away, while the gin and vodka it produces are served at stylish addresses like the Troutbeck (doubles from $580), a hotel in Amenia, and the restaurant Stissing House (entrées $22-$155), in Pine Plains.
LAGOS RISING
Africa's biggest city is a powerhouse of art, culture, and fashion. Shirley Nwangwa reflects on her relationship to her family's home and to her Nigerian identity, while photographer Ike Edeani captures the creative scene.
DEEP DIVE
Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.
AMERICAN VINTAGE
After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.
The Luxury of Silence
Grieving a dissolved marriage, Nora Walsh seeks peace and compassion at a meditation retreat in California.
Take a Hike
A beloved Malibu spa renowned for embracing the outdoors makes its way to the East Coast. Jess Feldman takes an inside look.
Just Dive In
The most nautical Four Seasons has to be this scuba-centric ship, which sails a rarely visited corner of the Pacific.
The Next Frontier
With deep pockets and mighty ambitions, Saudi Arabia is building a high-end resort area with serious green cred.