MAMAAAAA!" MY SON, Kweli, screamed as a baby donkey named Matilda bit his big toe. By the sound of his cry, I thought the animal had taken a generous chunk one that might necessitate an emergency speedboat trip from the island of Hvar, where we were staying, back to mainland Croatia. Thankfully, Kweli was just shaken up, and his toe only lightly nipped, but Matilda's overzealous greeting wasn't an ideal start to what was supposed to be a relaxing getaway.
The preceding year had been relentless, between family health issues and COVID lockdowns, which had confined me and my six-year-old to our Zagreb apartment for more than two months and eliminated the possibility of travel, my primary beat as a writer. Around the time restrictions started to ease, I caught wind of Maslina Resort, a new beachfront property with 53 rooms and villas on the laid-back northern coast of Hvar-an island I've visited frequently since the early 1990s. I immediately booked a five-day escape to help us decompress.
Our adventure had begun with a jolt, even before the encounter with Matilda. We'd driven four hours from Zagreb to a dock outside the coastal city of Split, where the resort's custom-crafted Colnago 45 TS speedboat was waiting for us. Kweli dug right into the cookies and sugarcoated orange peels the crew provided, and we woohoo-ed as the boat bumped through the waves-until we hit a big one that left Kweli rattled and seasick for the rest of the one-hour voyage.
After reaching the island, we climbed into the golf cart that would take us the six minutes to Maslina. As the resort's larch-wood façade emerged from forests of Aleppo pine, both Kweli and both of us began to relax. By the time we checked in to our room, with its peaceful palette of grays and greens and panoramic views of the azure Adriatic Sea, the big wave had become a hazy memory.
Denne historien er fra May 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
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Denne historien er fra May 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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The Luxury of Silence - Grieving a dissolved marriage, Nora Walsh seeks peace and compassion at a meditation retreat in California.
My decade-long marriage to a man I deeply love had dissolved, and I had come to the Spirit Rock Meditation Center, in the secluded hills of Marin County, north of San Francisco, to steady myself. Led by the author and meditation teacher Oren Jay Sofer, the seven-day silent retreat focused on the four brahmavihāra, or Buddhist virtues: loving-kindness, compassion, joy, and equanimity.
Family Values - Gay father and blogger Jonathan Bailey shares his proudest moments of traveling with his partner and daughters.
My partner and I grew up in families that didn't travel a lot, so we've always had a sense of wanderlust. Before we had kids, we traveled together, and it was life-changing-travel opened our minds to different ways of life.In 2000, Triton and I decided to have kids. At the time, my mom had terminal cancer, and we were all about connecting with family. We wanted to adopt, because we felt like there were so many children in the world who needed love and a good home. In 2002, my mom passed away, and Sophia was born two weeks later. We welcomed our second daughter, Ava, in 2004.
Back to Sri Lanka - The past few years have not been easy on this alluring South Asian island. But on a return visit, Prasad Ramamurthy finds a place-and a people-on the upswing.
I was at the end of a five-day journey that had begun in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, in southwestern Sri Lanka, and taken me across the southern tip of the island to the leopard reserve of Yala National Park. In between I had taken in the dramatic coastline of Weligama and had stopped for some beach time in Hiriketiya. Sri Lanka is a country I'm particularly fond of, so when I was asked to revisit to report this story, I seized the opportunity. Yes, I was dying to go back, but I'd had another motive for coming: I wanted to see if the island nation was ready to welcome international visitors again.
Experiences: Hands On - Single-malt whiskies and triple-cream cheeses are the stuff New York's Hudson Valley is made of.
The Hudson Valley has long drawn New York City dwellers in search of clean air, spectacular hikes, and upstate culture. Now a budding community of artisans-young farmers, bakers, vintners, distillers-is turning the region into a modern breadbasket.It is a tightly woven ecosystem that also extends to restaurants and hotels. At Tenmile Distillery, in the town of Wassaic, for example, the grain used to make whiskey comes from a farm in Tivoli, 30 miles away, while the gin and vodka it produces are served at stylish addresses like the Troutbeck (doubles from $580), a hotel in Amenia, and the restaurant Stissing House (entrées $22-$155), in Pine Plains.
LAGOS RISING
Africa's biggest city is a powerhouse of art, culture, and fashion. Shirley Nwangwa reflects on her relationship to her family's home and to her Nigerian identity, while photographer Ike Edeani captures the creative scene.
DEEP DIVE
Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.
AMERICAN VINTAGE
After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.
Take a Hike
A beloved Malibu spa renowned for embracing the outdoors makes its way to the East Coast. Jess Feldman takes an inside look.
Just Dive In
The most nautical Four Seasons has to be this scuba-centric ship, which sails a rarely visited corner of the Pacific.
The Next Frontier
With deep pockets and mighty ambitions, Saudi Arabia is building a high-end resort area with serious green cred.
