THE TAXI DROPPED ME a short walk from AC House (tasting menu $83), a new Tokyo restaurant tucked in the origami folds of a residential neighborhood near the Aoyama Cemetery. The location was appropriate, since I felt like another drink would probably kill me.
A space capsule of smooth white curves, AC House's first floor is dominated by a swooping 10-seat counter and an open kitchen where chef Atsuki Kuroda chars turnips on the robata grill and studs squid blini with gingko nuts. The open second story of this former residence has been preserved down to the last knotty timber plank. Anchored in Japanese ingredients and influenced by Italy and Scandinavia, the cooking is similarly layered, and I wanted to be excited about it. But the idea of 10 courses, each one paired with wine, dampened my enthusiasm like a bucket of cold water. Actually, I would have preferred a bucket of cold water.
"Could I switch to the nonalcoholic pairing?" I asked my server, Haruna Sugiyama. She explained that the nonalcoholic option needed to be ordered in advance. Her smile was sympathetic, but I knew she was thinking, What, you expect us to conjure a roster of compelling zero-proof drinks on the fly?
Except that's exactly what happened, beginning with a glass of effervescent liquid far too fuchsia to be wine. "Amazake," she told me, a cloudy, subtly sweet beverage made with koji-cultured rice. The purple was from shiso syrup, she continued, and that was diced pickled orange peel gathering at the bottom of the goblet like cubic boba. Pinprick bubbles raced to the surface. A single large ice cube clonked against the delicate glass, and suddenly, I was thirsty.
Denne historien er fra September 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
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Denne historien er fra September 2023-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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Family Values - Gay father and blogger Jonathan Bailey shares his proudest moments of traveling with his partner and daughters.
My partner and I grew up in families that didn't travel a lot, so we've always had a sense of wanderlust. Before we had kids, we traveled together, and it was life-changing-travel opened our minds to different ways of life.In 2000, Triton and I decided to have kids. At the time, my mom had terminal cancer, and we were all about connecting with family. We wanted to adopt, because we felt like there were so many children in the world who needed love and a good home. In 2002, my mom passed away, and Sophia was born two weeks later. We welcomed our second daughter, Ava, in 2004.
Back to Sri Lanka - The past few years have not been easy on this alluring South Asian island. But on a return visit, Prasad Ramamurthy finds a place-and a people-on the upswing.
I was at the end of a five-day journey that had begun in the UNESCO World Heritage site of Galle Fort, in southwestern Sri Lanka, and taken me across the southern tip of the island to the leopard reserve of Yala National Park. In between I had taken in the dramatic coastline of Weligama and had stopped for some beach time in Hiriketiya. Sri Lanka is a country I'm particularly fond of, so when I was asked to revisit to report this story, I seized the opportunity. Yes, I was dying to go back, but I'd had another motive for coming: I wanted to see if the island nation was ready to welcome international visitors again.
Experiences: Hands On - Single-malt whiskies and triple-cream cheeses are the stuff New York's Hudson Valley is made of.
The Hudson Valley has long drawn New York City dwellers in search of clean air, spectacular hikes, and upstate culture. Now a budding community of artisans-young farmers, bakers, vintners, distillers-is turning the region into a modern breadbasket.It is a tightly woven ecosystem that also extends to restaurants and hotels. At Tenmile Distillery, in the town of Wassaic, for example, the grain used to make whiskey comes from a farm in Tivoli, 30 miles away, while the gin and vodka it produces are served at stylish addresses like the Troutbeck (doubles from $580), a hotel in Amenia, and the restaurant Stissing House (entrées $22-$155), in Pine Plains.
LAGOS RISING
Africa's biggest city is a powerhouse of art, culture, and fashion. Shirley Nwangwa reflects on her relationship to her family's home and to her Nigerian identity, while photographer Ike Edeani captures the creative scene.
DEEP DIVE
Go for a swim with sperm whales, and you may find yourself hooked. Maggie Shipstead journeys to the Caribbean island of Dominica, where these giants of the deep are making a big splash.
AMERICAN VINTAGE
After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve. Wanda Mann takes a tasting tour.
The Luxury of Silence
Grieving a dissolved marriage, Nora Walsh seeks peace and compassion at a meditation retreat in California.
Take a Hike
A beloved Malibu spa renowned for embracing the outdoors makes its way to the East Coast. Jess Feldman takes an inside look.
Just Dive In
The most nautical Four Seasons has to be this scuba-centric ship, which sails a rarely visited corner of the Pacific.
The Next Frontier
With deep pockets and mighty ambitions, Saudi Arabia is building a high-end resort area with serious green cred.
