Peak Peru

On a trek through the canyons and cliffs of the country's southern region, Mark Johanson finds a surprising mix of adventure, culture, and history.

SUNBEAMS SPILLED over snow-dusted hills into southern Peru's Colca Canyon, sparking the morning migration of condors, earth's largest birds of prey. At first, in that indigo hour, there was just a solitary bird. It surfed the thermals without ever needing to bat a wing, showing a grace and serenity that, upon closer inspection, belied its gawky face. Then three more condors careened into view, gliding up the yawning chasm so close to my cliff-top perch that I could feel their tailwinds.

Pre-Incan cultures viewed these birds as messengers of the gods, explained Vladimir Canazas, my guide from SA Expeditions. "The feeling of seeing these condors up close is so emotional that it affects me every time," he said. I quickly understood why. The 40-odd condors nesting along this stretch of the canyon seemed oblivious to the crowds that, enchanted by their acrobatics, marveled from above. Just to the west of us, Colca Canyon plunged like an abyss, cleaving a scar into the Andes twice as deep as the Grand Canyon.

Despite its beauty, few Americans have heard of Colca Canyon. For decades, the canyon and nearby Arequipa, Peru's second-largest city, were off the radar for foreigners. But over the past few years, freshly paved roads have made the region easier to access, and the opening of several high-end accommodations has made it a comfortable perch for a few days of adventure travel.