INSECTS HUMMED and frogs croaked as I sat on a granite bench inside a small, dome roofed structure in the Uruguayan beach town of José Ignacio. It was a muggy day in late January, and my partner, Felipe, and I were staring at the tangerine sunset through a hole in the snow-white marble ceiling of Ta Khut, South America's first freestanding Skyspace installation by American artist James Turrell. Artificial light in the structure's interior fluctuates with the natural fade of dawn and dusk, lulling visitors into an almost meditative state of mind.
Thirty or so of us had gathered that evening, and all were transfixed by the shades that appeared dandelion and violet one minute, black and lavender the next. Soft flashes of heat lightning crackled through the open roof as the world outside became darker and the Skyspace glowed ever brighter.
After 40 minutes, we emerged from our colorful cocoon into the inky night in a complete daze. The other several dozen artworks dotted around our 17-room hotel, Posada Ayana (posada-ayana.com; doubles from $565), would have to wait until tomorrow.
Convincing Felipe to come with me to Uruguay's Atlantic coast for a culture fueled long weekend hadn't been easy. The deputy director of an art museum in Santiago, Chile, he had associated the region with its main hub, Punta del Este a kind of flashy wannabe Miami, where Brazilian models, Argentine soccer players, and Chilean reality stars go to be photographed by paparazzi. In other words, not a destination for an aesthete like him.
Denne historien er fra October 2022-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
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Denne historien er fra October 2022-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
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EARTHLY DELIGHTS
Come fall, the Italian region of Umbria is a lush, fertile inland oasis. Peter Terzian reaps a bounty of culinary and cultural pleasures.
RUNNER'S HIGH
Some travelers like to move at a faster clip. Alexandra Kleeman crosses the peaks and pastures of Ireland with a group of women who take life in stride.
THE WILDEST ISLE
Compared with its neighbors, the island of Hawaii is bigger, more untamed-and, at times, unpredictable. With her family in tow, Flora Stubbs finds the perfect balance between relaxation and rugged adventure.
A ticket to the top of the world
On a luxurious train tour of Peru, Lake Titicaca and Machu Picchu are the headline acts. But, as Monisha Rajesh discovers, witnessing everyday life from the rails can be every bit as memorable.
Bonjour la France
When an American writer retires in Brittany, she learns how to belong again.
Chills and Thrills
On an Alaskan wilderness adventure, Sarah Manguso and her son learn the elements of survival.
Wheels on Fire
With its blazing fall colors and picturesque villages, the Japanese island of Kyushu was made for cycling.
Down to Earth
Pottery runs deep in Santa Fe, from hallowed Pueblo collections to clay-throwing pubs.
Steel City Shining
A tech boom; a thriving cultural scene; destination dining. Can this be... Pittsburgh?
HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL
This cute Pennsylvania town is brimming with artistic and cultural energy.
