THE SCENE FELT fantastical, straight out of a Disney movie. Three glasswing butterflies perched on a cluster of billy-goat weed. Orchids dotted the dark green forest canopy. Tiny iridescent hummingbirds flashed across the sky like fairies. Finally, in this moment, was the Costa Rica I'd been looking for.
Since becoming a poster child for ecotourism in the 1990s, the country has attracted millions of visitors a year, myself among them. But last summer, on what was my sixth visit, I heard more English than Spanish in the surf town of Nosara, and was almost ready to dismiss the country as overtouristed.
Hiking the Camino de Costa Rica this year proved me wrong. Managed and promoted by the nonprofit Mar a Mar Association, this 174-mile-long trail stretches across the entire country - from the Caribbean Sea to the Pacific Ocean and offers an experience far from the tourist hubs. The 16-stage route spans five separate micro-climates, and passes through remote villages, Indigenous land, protected natural areas, and more than 20 towns that up until now have benefited little from conventional tourism. Along the way, trekkers eat and sleep in local homes and family-run lodges.
A walking safari, a culinary tour, and a cultural deep dive rolled into one, the Camino is also physically challenging. While travelers can technically walk it by themselves, it's wise to hire a guide: the trail is isolated, and there are lots of prickly and poisonous things along the way. I also found it helpful to have someone who could field questions about the mind-boggling flora and fauna.
Denne historien er fra December 2023 - January 2024-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
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Denne historien er fra December 2023 - January 2024-utgaven av Travel+Leisure US.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
EARTHLY DELIGHTS
Come fall, the Italian region of Umbria is a lush, fertile inland oasis. Peter Terzian reaps a bounty of culinary and cultural pleasures.
RUNNER'S HIGH
Some travelers like to move at a faster clip. Alexandra Kleeman crosses the peaks and pastures of Ireland with a group of women who take life in stride.
THE WILDEST ISLE
Compared with its neighbors, the island of Hawaii is bigger, more untamed-and, at times, unpredictable. With her family in tow, Flora Stubbs finds the perfect balance between relaxation and rugged adventure.
A ticket to the top of the world
On a luxurious train tour of Peru, Lake Titicaca and Machu Picchu are the headline acts. But, as Monisha Rajesh discovers, witnessing everyday life from the rails can be every bit as memorable.
Bonjour la France
When an American writer retires in Brittany, she learns how to belong again.
Chills and Thrills
On an Alaskan wilderness adventure, Sarah Manguso and her son learn the elements of survival.
Wheels on Fire
With its blazing fall colors and picturesque villages, the Japanese island of Kyushu was made for cycling.
Down to Earth
Pottery runs deep in Santa Fe, from hallowed Pueblo collections to clay-throwing pubs.
Steel City Shining
A tech boom; a thriving cultural scene; destination dining. Can this be... Pittsburgh?
HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL
This cute Pennsylvania town is brimming with artistic and cultural energy.