The R303 is one of those strange roads that should probably be more popular than it is. It’s not the most direct route to Citrusdal (that would be the N7), nor is it the easiest route to the Cederberg. As a result, it sees little tourist traffic, which is a shame because it offers a lesson in the intricacies of the Cape Fold Mountains as it climbs and plunges over the wind-sculpted ridges of the Koue Bokkeveld.
Middelberg Pass is the highlight of the journey between Ceres and Citrusdal, but first I pause for coffee in Op-die-Berg at the top of the Gydo Pass. A relatively new town (only founded in 1961), the town’s most famous landmark, and the reason for its existence, is its modernist Dutch Reformed church with its long, piercing spire, designed by APS Conradie.
As I sip my cappuccino at Wonderlik Koffiestop, next to the tractor dealership in Protea Street, shouts from rugby practice at Laerskool Koue Bokkeveld drift across the fence. The kids are running on hallowed ground; Op-die-Berg is where Springbok wing Breyton Paulse went to school and started his career of slicing through defenders.
Then it’s time to hit the road. I turn north out of Op-die-Berg, along a lumpy 5km section where the potholes have been repaired, then onto smooth tar through farmland.
I’m driving this route several weeks after the surge of winter rainfall that flooded roads into Citrusdal. Up on the plateau, there are broad ponds with coots splashing in them. The mountain slopes sparkle with streams that trickle from distant snowfall, gently shaping rocks and rewriting rivers.
Fruitful valleys
Denne historien er fra October/November 2023-utgaven av go! - South Africa.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent ? Logg på
Denne historien er fra October/November 2023-utgaven av go! - South Africa.
Start din 7-dagers gratis prøveperiode på Magzter GOLD for å få tilgang til tusenvis av utvalgte premiumhistorier og 9000+ magasiner og aviser.
Allerede abonnent? Logg på
Rolling out the big guns
If you're still scanning the horizon for a Chinese automotive invasion you're looking the wrong way. It's already happening, and the new GWM Tank is the off-road spearhead into the highly lucrative and hotly contested lifestyle market.
TAKE A HIKE
The beautiful agony of Tienuurkop
Time out in Dullies
A long weekend in Dullstroom is just long enough to make you realise you need to spend several more weekends here! There's food, drink, art and action in abundance. Here's your guide.
Gallivanting in the Galápagos!
The Galápagos Islands are on many a traveller's wish list. They were on Hanlie and Vivian Gericke's too, even though the price of visiting made their eyes water. Was it worth it? Read on...
BURCHELL AND THE COUNTRY OF THE BUSHMEN
How many times have you driven through a landscape and wished you could have seen it centuries ago? In 1811, the English artist and explorer, William John Burchell, travelled through South Africa. Join us as we follow in his footsteps.
Long live the Hibiscus Coast
The KZN South Coast is a national treasure. It's still the place to go if you want a classic seaside holiday complete with warm waves, cold beer, soft serve and good vibes. Here's your guide.
The island at the end of the earth
Imagine adlace-with the cleanest air arid:the clearest seawater, where_no human.oranimabwants to:harm you: A placewhere the climates balmy. year-round:-with a sekrhistory ahd wwild scenery. A place like this:exist8” and it’s called St Helena.
A day on the road
You never know what the road will bring. Toast Coetzer heads south on the N1 and discovers South Africa.
The wilder shore
The final leg of a 30-day trek across East Africa sees lan Tyrer and the Africa - Wild & Untamed crew explore both shores of Lake Malawi. Get ready for an overloaded ferry, a croc attack and being surrounded by elephants...
A river runs through it
Sabie is onthe Drakensberg escaromentialongMpumalanga’s famous Panorama Route. Want a weekend away surrounded by forests and waterfalls? Here's wnat you need to know.
