PORTUGAL'S secret hideaways

Escape the crowds and discover sun-soaked corners with sublime beaches, fresh seafood and charming atmosphere

- ALEX ALLEN

FOR QUIET BEACHES

Viana do Castelo

Less than an hour north of Porto, in the heart of the Costa Verde, Viana do Castelo is one of Portugal's most underrated cities. It's the jumping-off point for some of its best beaches too.

Why go The town itself has historic tile-fronted houses, cobbled streets lined with little bakeries and a handful of excellent museums (such as the Fundação Gil Eannes, a maritime museum housed in a decommissioned ice-breaker ship). But the real reason to come here is to access the numerous blonde beaches that lie to the north and south of the town. You may have many of them to yourself - even in high season!

What to do Grab your swimmers and hop in the car. Follow the N13 road north towards Vila Praia de Âncora, pulling over for a sea dip and sun soak at any beach that takes your fancy. There's Praia de Carreço, with its rock pools and simple but good-quality beach restaurant, Areia. Next, it's softer, sandier, Praia do Paço, overlooked by the ruins of Forte de Paço, followed by the seemingly endless stretch of sand that links Praia da Arda with Praia de Afife. The former has a surf school, in case you fancied a play in the Atlantic breakers. The next day, head south of Viana do Costelo, where more of the same awaits.

Where to stay Hotel Flôr de Sal is a couple of minutes drive outside of town, but more than worth it for the bright sea-facing rooms with wooden floors, Scandi-minimal furnishings and, in some cases, generous balconies. Doubles from £150 B&B; hotelflordesal.com. Closer to the centre, boutique Flag Design Hotel is housed in a historic townhouse, with period features. Doubles from £56, room only; portugalhoteisdesign.com 

FOR PICTURE PERFECT ARCHITECTURE