Chicken Thighs With An Ancient Seasoning

The superb flavour of this quick and easy dish comes from an extremely old Middle Eastern seasoning, za’atar, that is still a mainstay in the region. For the chicken, use thighs rather than breasts; they are more succulent and offer superior flavour.

Za’atar is a tart herb and spice mix that is standard in many Levantine kitchens, from Lebanon down to Egypt. The ingredients are herbs, sumac, sesame seeds and salt. The herb component varies, but traditionally it contains hyssop, also known as Syrian oregano. This has long been used as a flavouring, and in Biblical times was also used as an antiseptic and hence for purification: “Purge me with hyssop, and I shall be clean.” When burnt, it has a similar crisp, clarifying perfume to mpepho, as any sangoma will confirm.

If your local Asian supermarket doesn’t stock za’atar, ordinary oregano is an adequate alternative.

Next, chickpeas. These come as little molar-destroying stones which may soften over time with extensive boiling. Get canned quickpeas; they’re much easier.