Tales From The River

A Viking cruise on the Elbe offers an intriguing mix of history, culture, scenery… and some fabulous apple strudel, says Julie Peasgood.

- Julie Peasgood

We are clutching our sweets like excited kids on a day trip from school. The state of Saxony beckons and Captain Ber, along with Hotel Manager Janos Olah, have dispensed chocolates and candies to send us off “with energy” for our excursion. In a few hours’ time, when we have gasped at the spectacular Bastei rock formations and taken far too many photos of the Elbe from its most dramatic lookout point, we are welcomed back with warm scented towels and more care and consideration than I have ever experienced on any ship before.

And if it happens to be raining, the crew will be lining our path on both sides with vast red umbrellas to keep us dry while we are boarding.

There’s something special about Viking Beyla. The river ship is the epitome of “small but perfectly formed” as it is only half the size of Viking’s superb 190-passenger Longships, and it was purpose built to navigate the extremely shallow waters between Berlin and Prague, which it can manage even when the Elbe’s levels are low. Constructed in 2015, this ‘baby longship’ carries just 98 passengers in 49 staterooms, which contributes to the friendly, more intimate feel on board.

The ambience, congenial but never claustrophobic, is initiated by an accommodating, carefully chosen crew. There is a high degree of personal attention, with Programme Director Nancy Van Turnhout the star of the show. Warm-hearted, witty and tirelessly efficient, Nancy guides us every nautical mile of the way, from the Hilton in medieval Prague through to goodbye hugs at the Intercontinental in über-cool Berlin.