“I’d like to see more people ride different boards, make themselves stand out. In my era—and before, actually—everybody had such a distinct style, nobody really compared to anyone.”
Just get out there and make a go of it.
I was doing badly in amateur events as a teenager, but Luke Egan grabbed me and said, “Fuck that amateur stuff. Come have a go at the Tour.” I told my mom I was leaving school to try to make it as a pro. She freaked, but I won the Bells trials that first year and I never looked back.
The Tour should be an adventure.
When I was young it still was. We used to all travel together because we had no money. We were like a band. We’d pack ourselves four to a car, throw boards on the roof and go. If one of us won money we’d share it with our mates and figure we’d just win it back. We’d be sleeping in tents at the beach in France or somewhere, looking at maps, going, “Mate, where are we?” We were on our own to get to the next event. But we had a ball.
The surf industry tried to get too big.
This story is from the Volume 60, Issue 1 edition of Surfer.
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This story is from the Volume 60, Issue 1 edition of Surfer.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
60 Years Ahead
We had a whole plan for this year. Funny, right? Surfer's 60 year anniversary volume was going to be filled with stories nodding to SURFER’s past, with cover concepts paying homage to the magazine’s most iconic imagery. Our new Page One depicts something that’s never happened in surfing before, let alone on a prior SURFER cover. And our table of contents was completely scrapped and replaced as we reacted to the fizzing, sparking, roiling world around us. In other words, 2020 happened to SURFER, just like it happened to you.
A Few Things We Got Horribly Wrong
You don’t make 60 years of magazines without dropping some balls. Here are a few
THE LGBTQ+ WAVE
Surf culture has a long history of marginalizing the LGBTQ+ community, but a new generation of queer surfers is working to change that
For Generations to Come
Rockaway’s Lou Harris is spreading the stoke to Black youth and leading surfers in paddling out for racial justice
Christina Koch, 41
Texas surfer, NASA astronaut, record holder for the longest continuous spaceflight by a woman
END TIMES FOR PRO SURFING
By the time the pandemic is done reshaping the world, will the World Tour still have a place in it?
CHANGING OF THE GUARD
After decades of exclusive access to Hollister Ranch, the most coveted stretch of California coast is finally going public
What They Don't Tell You
How does becoming a mother affect your surfing life?
Four Things to Make You Feel A Little Less Shitty About Everything
Helpful reminders for the quarantine era
The Art of Being Seen
How a group of black women are finding creative ways to make diversity in surfing more visible