VIBRANT ISLES

THE AZORES ARE MORE THAN JUST A MID-OCEAN RESPITE SPOT, THEY’RE AN APPEALING CRUISING DESTINATION IN THEIR OWN RIGHT, AS KILA ZAMANA EXPLAINS

- KILA ZAMANA

“Run, young lady! You shouldn’t be there!” a voice screamed behind me. I didn’t understand; I had no idea why the crowd had gathered in one spot in between jagged streets at the hour of twilight. Suddenly two legions ran in opposite directions, as if escaping from an explosion. I instinctively followed. It was then that I spotted a giant black bull on a loose rope.

I climbed out of harm’s way onto a wall, feeling frankly more intimidated by the concerned looks of the men running with the bull than the bull itself, so distressed were they at seeing a woman tossed into the middle of the action. This was ‘Tourada a Corda’, a tradition exclusive to the Azores, and particularly practised on Terceira. Bulls are set running down the street, held on a rope by two groups of five strong men each.

It’s an ancient tradition that dates back to the Spanish invasion, when the people of Angra do Heroismo scared the invaders away by setting angry bulls upon them. It’s not a spectacle widely shared with tourists, as the place and time for each bull run is passed by word of mouth between locals. Most chose to stay safely behind improvised barricades watching the event with beer and bifana (Portuguese pork sandwiches).

There is one universal rule: the bull cannot be physically harmed (and nor should the men who run with it). Unlike Spanish bullfights, the bull is not killed after the event: rather, it is kept in the best possible physical shape and well-rested for future runs. The Tourada a Corda is an adrenaline-driven sport to test behavioural skills. Whether you consider it humane or not, it is one of the most ancient traditions of this historic island group and was a real introduction to the true Azores.

ISLAND EXPLORATION