Obsessions

This Spud’s for You Chefs are personalizing the french fry with fun new shapes and bold flavors. Turn the page for our faves—and some easy ways to bring the trend home.

EVERYONE LOVES FRENCH FRIES,” says Kwame Onwuachi, executive chef of Kith/Kin in Washington, D.C. (kithandkindc.com). At his casual Afro-Caribbean restaurant, he’s reintroducing a crowd favorite from his pop-up days: waffle fries with berbere salt (recipe below). The Ethiopian spice blend brings a citrusy sweet heat to the fried spuds. He’s not the only chef playing with the fry form: “If we didn’t have fries, people would probably revolt,” says Todd Duplechan, the director of food and beverage behind J.T. Youngblood’s in Austin (jtyoungbloods.com). He’s recently revived the legendary Texas fried chicken joint—and along with it, the curlicue fries it served back in the 1950s. “I like how they bring me back to childhood,” says Duplechan. “I’m 16 years old at Solly’s fry station in Addison, Texas, again.”

Kwame’s Waffle Fries

ACTIVE 1 HR; TOTAL 1 HR 40 MIN

SERVES 4

10 cups water

2 lb. russet potatoes

14 cups canola oil

4 tsp. berbere (such as Whole Foods Organic Berbere Seasoning)

2 tsp. kosher salt

1. Bring 10 cups water to a boil in a large stockpot over high; reduce heat to medium-low, and maintain a simmer.

2. Meanwhile, use a mandoline fitted with a waffle blade or use a wave waffle cutter to cut potatoes into waffle shaped slices. Drop potato slices, in batches, into simmering water, and cook, stirring occasionally and adjusting heat if necessary to maintain a simmer, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Using a spider or slotted spoon, gently remove potato slices from water, and arrange in a single layer on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet. Let stand until cool, about 25 minutes.