The Moon Park team is back with a deep bench of talent and a high strike rate, writes PAT NOURSE.
I haven’t quite eaten everything at Paper Bird. Somehow the breakfast bao has eluded me. And I only tried a quarter of a piece of the Hong Kong French toast, a pan-fried peanut-buttery thing that Elvis might have eaten if he’d found himself in Kowloon during the bulging-jumpsuit years. I got my taste by trading some of my shrimp-brined fried chicken for a piece from the table next to me one morning. (Table seven, if you’re reading this: you know you got the better end of that deal.)
But I reckon 24 out of 30 ain’t bad. I’d like to say I’m driven by my dedication to giving you the most complete picture of the matter at hand, but really you’re just my alibi. The truth is I can’t stay away from the place.
Avocado on rye jazzed up with coriander salsa and sesame seeds for breakfast? I’m there. A rich, creamy congee with crab and corn for brunch? Hello. More crab for lunch, served bibimbap-style in a bowl of rice piled high with gooey scrambled egg, swatches of nori and shreds of Brussels sprout? I’ll take two. Sweet-spicy Chongqing popcorn with dried red chilli and Sichuan pepper and peanuts to chase a cocktail? Sign me up. And I’ll be back for dinner.
I wouldn’t come back for the “everything” bagel, mind you (the everything collection of smoked trout, cream cheese, zuke pickles and trout floss comes off sweet) and the coffee situation has been variable, but I want just about everything else again.
This story is from the November 2017 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
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This story is from the November 2017 edition of Gourmet Traveller.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
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Not a vegetable but rather a flower bud that rises on a thistle, the artichoke is a complex delight. Its rewards are hard won; first you must get past the armour of petals and remove the hairy choke. Those who step up are rewarded with sweet and savoury creaminess and the elusive flavour of spring. Many of the recipes here begin with the same Provençal braise. Others call on the nuttiness of artichokes in their raw form. The results make pasta lighter and chicken brighter or can be fried to become a vessel for bold flavours all of which capture the levity of the season.
