Beer From Here

More Craft Breweries Embrace Locavorism.

- Tyra Sutak

On a cold winter afternoon in the midst of the three-day Big Beers, Belgians & Barley wines festival in Vail, Colo., four brewers from different parts of the US gathered to lead a packed room of curious industry members in a conversation about terroir: the set of unique environmental factors and farming practices that impart distinct flavors to wine or beer. Based on a challenge issued by the festival organizers, the panel—Jeffery Stuffings of Jester King Brewery, Chase Healey of American Solera, Phil Markowski of Two Roads Brewing Company, and Nile Zacherle of Mad Fritz Brewing Company—each followed the same recipe using ingredients sourced from their brewery’s region. It was an experiment that showcased just how important raw ingredients are to beer, and an ode to the locavore movement inspiring a grain-to-glass approach at breweries. From water, to wild yeast strains, to locally grown hops and grains, this ethos has infiltrated the craft brewing industry, and it’s picking up steam.

For most breweries, joining the movement is a nod to the experimental nature of the brewing profession, and an effort to cycle money back into the local economy. But just like “shopping local” in the food world, making beers entirely with ingredients from a single state comes with a list of challenges—the biggest being location. Hops and barley, two staples of nearly every beer recipe, grow better in some parts of the country than others, giving breweries in climate- and geography-blessed states like Washington, Oregon, and Idaho a leg up on crafting quality beers exclusive to their state. Yes, Florida is now growing hops in small quantities, but will they ever be more than a token ingredient for the growing breweries there?