24 HOURS IN Rye

The East Sussex medieval town of Rye is, at first glance, a picture postcard vision of Olde England, all meandering cobbles, half-timbered houses and charming idiosyncrasies.

- Jenny Mark-Bell

One of the south coast’s historic Cinque Ports, its strategic importance lends Rye some of its atmosphere – the citadel was originally enclosed by four gates, of which Landgate Arch is the only survivor. The town was also a busy port with all the attendant excitement and foreign influence, and there is a long history of smuggling in the area.

But that’s all a long way from today’s genteel town, surrounded by golden beaches and a sweeping coastal plain. The beauty of the area attracted the attention of JMW Turner, who produced a number of paintings and drawings depicting the local area.

The town has also long held an attraction for writers, its resident scribes including Henry James, who lived for many years at Lamb House, now a National Trust property; lesbian novelist Radclyffe Hall; and EF Benson, whose comic Mapp and Lucia novels have been twice adapted for television and filmed in the town. Netflix behemoth The Crown also filmed scenes in Rye for the most recent series, so the town is well used to welcoming actors and crews.

Today Rye is famed as a weekend break destination, thanks in part to its excellent independent and antiques shops and blossoming food scene.

IN THE MORNING