<p>Clothing designer Andreas Melbostad was working in Italy and got an unexpected call, he was invited to sit down and discuss an ambitious project with Renzo Rosso, the freewheeling, self-made owner of Italian fashion conglomerate OTB. Melbostad said yes, and a little while later was sitting alone with Rosso in his huge office. &ldquo;He has a very bold and brave approach, and a lot of enthusiasm,&rdquo; Melbostad says, &ldquo;It was extremely attractive, and it made me feel like there was this stamina behind the project, and he really wanted to take it and make it succeed with the right approach and attitude.&rdquo; The project was this, four years prior, OTB&rsquo;s largest brand, Diesel, had launched a high-end line called Diesel Black Gold. Now it was 2012, and Rosso was looking for an ambitious new leader to refine Black Gold&rsquo;s voice, and, in typical Rosso fashion, he was looking for talent in unexpected places. Melbostad, after all, had been working at PHI, a start-up founded by Susan Dell, wife of the self-made computer manufacturer and billionaire Michael Dell. He wouldn&rsquo;t have been on many iconic brands&rsquo; radars. But Russo is known for his unorthodox decisions, beginning with how he established his own career. As legend goes, Rosso was an avid partyer in his early days, and was fired from his job as a production manager at denim company Moltex. Firm owner Adriano Goldschmied&rsquo;s wife convinced him to give Rosso another chance. Rosso then grew Moltex&rsquo;s sales substantially, which earned him a stake in the growing business. He&rsquo;d go on to build a fashion empire that reportedly banks about R25 billion annually. So, what did Rosso see in his newest recruit? Melbostad has a guess. PHI was a start-from-scratch company, and business people&nbsp;learn a lot when starting at the bottom. &ldquo;It was an opportunity to build a brand, to build a team,&rdquo; Melbostad says, &ldquo;It was not a project that necessarily needed to make money immediately. It was really about constructing something over time that could be valuable for the future.&rdquo; Those are all key skills, and directly applicable to building something like Black Gold. Melbostad set to work. Diesel&rsquo;s jeans typically top out at around R5 000, but for Diesel Black Gold, R4 500 is the minimum. To sell products at that price point, he realised, you have to be a leader, to go places that others will want to follow. So he channelled his own leader, Rosso, &ldquo;He&rsquo;s a bit of a rebel, and he&rsquo;s definitely built his company on certain rebellious values that I like to tap into,&rdquo; Melbostad says. You can see it in the clothes. The fabrics may be familiar, denim and leather are cornerstones of the brand, after all, but he renders them differently. Jeans are generally cut slim, and a few feature ribbing and zippers down the leg that nod to motocross. This fall&rsquo;s military-inspired overcoats are covered in pins and chains; they retail for around R13 000. Leather motorcycle jackets covered in studs and intricate prints will set you back about R72 906. And now the designer is even pushing outside of Diesel&rsquo;s traditional clothing and into suits, sweaters, and accessories. It&rsquo;s a challenge, he says, because his team&rsquo;s expertise is in jeans and jackets. &ldquo;That&rsquo;s a big process,&rdquo; he says. But he&rsquo;s guided by a vision. &ldquo;I want the clothing to work on the street, I want it to be very real and approachable, but I also want it to have a value in fashion today.&rdquo; It&rsquo;s a mix of the expected and the unexpected, of the familiar and the challenging. Just like Rosso himself.</p>

The Rebel

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