Preferred Pattern

The ikat weave is emerging as the India’s newest must-have in stealth luxury

- Varun Rana

WHILE THE SPOTLIGHT SEEMS TO SHINE BRIGHTLY ON THE Benarasi weave, a subtle, quiet upheaval is secretly taking place in the textile world. The weave is ikat—the pattern indigenous to both the eastern and western coasts of India where bundles of yarn are first resist dyed and then woven into cloth—and its champions are some of the finest names in Indian fashion.

Ikat’s versatility sets it apart from several of the other weaves of India. Visually, it is possibly the most modern given the geometric nature of its motifs. And when it comes to innovation, the only limit is the imagination.

“Because each yarn is individually tie-dyed, you can actually create a length of fabric that doesn’t require the motifs to be repeated, like a jacquard weave would,” says David Abraham of Abraham & Thakore. The duo first used the technique on a sari, and they continue to work extensively with ikat in their commercial and home lines.