Coat Tales

What’s made the Burberry trench such an icon? Its evolution, and the incredible stories and craftsmanship behind it

- Allysha Nila

To our 21st-century eyes, the Burberry trench has become an object to covet – a status symbol almost. And how natural it is to associate the item with British stars, especially when it has been seen frequently draped on model Kate Moss, actress Emma Watson and businesswoman Victoria Beckham. In fact, it has become a uniform of sorts for celebs instead of military officers for whom the garment was originally intended when it was first created in the 1870s. As the coat gained traction among the fashion set in the new millennium, current Chief Creative Officer Christopher Bailey designed iterations in every material, colour and silhouette imaginable. The result: form increasingly caught up with function.

But things have changed. For the February 2017 collection, the trench has been redesigned into something notably light and loose, yet structured. It retains features that hark back to its military beginnings: epaulettes, shoulder ornaments indicating rank, a waterproof storm shield, a D-ring belt to attach items (this was allegedly for fastening water bottles or guns), and back pleats to allow ease of movement (this was particularly important when running or riding on horseback).