A Tale Of Two Quarters

Exploring two contrasting sides of Zürich reveals that it’s much more than a global banking and finance centre.

- Jason Kwong

With a population of over 400,000, Zürich is the largest city in Switzerland. The spoken language is the Swiss German dialect. As for quality of living, it’s constantly ranked amongst the top cities. Drinking water flows from almost all public fountains, for example.

I was standing in front of a well-kept building – its muted yet rich design in concert with buildings around it, on a tree-lined street. It was a quiet one, a moneyed street. I saw a limousine parked between two street lamps, diagonally across the ornamental doors of a brownstone building.

In the front seat sat a uniformed chauffeur. The history-steeped guild houses here bore witness to the period between 1336 and 1798 when Zürich’s history was significantly influenced by its guilds. Scattered throughout were hints, worded allusions, and a few direct chronological references. I’m reminded that most Zürich residents are tenants – only a small percentage of them are homeowners.

These associations attempted to gain political power. They only succeeded in doing so following the Brun’s Guild Revolution in 1336. Under the leadership of nobleman Rudolf Brun, a Constitution of the Guilds was drawn up, regulating the balance of power in the city. With time, the craftsmen’s guilds also developed into political and military organisations with immense power. The coats of arms on the entrances of various buildings in the Old Town indicate which guild used to meet behind the respective doors.

It reminded me of spy films where multibillion-dollar transfers occurred by means of espionage and a thorough knowledge of Swiss banking practices. The statutes pertaining to banking confidentiality are among the most sacrosanct at Paradeplatz. For some, the stakes may seem lower these days. But if anything, it gives this locale more character even as law firms and fine-dining establishments have infiltrated its confines.