Smelling like flowers hasn&rsquo;t always been cool. Some garden-variety perfumes, like traditional rose blends or heady white florals, have a reputation for being old-fashioned, even fussy. Scents like sage, patchouli, oud, and smoke are much more fashionable. Or they were. But this fall, the classics are having a resurgence. As perfume creator Fr&eacute;d&eacute;ric Malle puts it, &ldquo;These days, cool girls want the heritage thing.&rdquo; And in perfumery, the &ldquo;heritage thing&rdquo; is flowers.The popularity of different blooms may wax and wane, but building blocks like rose, jasmine, and tuberose are always there, so anyone who thinks she doesn&rsquo;t like florals needs to check her preconceptions. With perfume, you simply can&rsquo;t make blanket judgments based on one or two things you&rsquo;ve smelled, explains Adriana Medina- Baez, a perfumer at Givaudan and one of the cocreators of Lanc&ocirc;me&rsquo;s new scent, Id&ocirc;le. &ldquo;Florals are in most fragrances. You just have to find one that speaks to you and you feel comfortable wearing,&rdquo; she says. &ldquo;Maybe you think you don&rsquo;t like tuberose because you smelled it in Fracas years ago, but you try Gucci Bloom and you end up liking the note because it was done differently.&rdquo;No one understands this better than Michelle Feeney, who launched the fragrance line Floral Street in London in 2017 and brought it to the States this year. &ldquo;When we opened our Covent Garden store, I was surprised how many consumers had preconceived ideas and would say, &lsquo;I don&rsquo;t like florals,&rsquo;&rdquo; Feeney says. She wants to prove that type of petal hater wrong: &ldquo;Our perfumes aren&rsquo;t like perfectly arranged bouquets. They&rsquo;re like bunches of flowers wrapped in paper and tied with string. They&rsquo;re less formal, more modern.&rdquo;J&eacute;r&ocirc;me Epinette, the perfumer who created all the fragrances in Feeney&rsquo;s line, says one way he creates a 21st-century floral is by avoiding a &ldquo;straight interpretation&rdquo; of the flower, instead combining it with surprising notes, such as woods. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s less literal,&rdquo; he explains.And it&rsquo;s not just the way the notes are combined that makes them modern; it&rsquo;s also how the aromas are extracted and how they&rsquo;re replicated in the lab. Take jasmine. Back in the day, the scent most people associated with the tiny white blooms was actually jasmine absolute, a natural oil extracted from the petals with the help of solvents. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s dark, thick, viscous, and incredibly intense. It&rsquo;s very sensual,&rdquo; says perfumer David Apel, who works for the fragrance house Symrise. But the modern take on jasmine, a synthetic note isolated from the flower&rsquo;s aroma, is much lighter. &ldquo;It&rsquo;s a transparent, fresh floral somewhere between jasmine and tea. It&rsquo;s basically in everything these days&mdash;men&rsquo;s and women&rsquo;s fragrances&mdash;because it&rsquo;s so easy to appreciate. It brings a naturality that&rsquo;s very modern.&rdquo;Even rose, that grandmotherly standby, has gotten a makeover. &ldquo;The technical process of extraction has evolved over the years,&rdquo; says Epinette. &ldquo;We still have steam distillation for rose essential oil&mdash;and the extraction by solvent for the absolute&mdash;but now you also have molecular distillation and friction distillation, processes that give the perfumer a more customized rose with new nuances.&rdquo; In short: A rose isn&rsquo;t a rose isn&rsquo;t a rose.And, sure, this guide is grouped by flower, but that&rsquo;s just to simplify things. Your best bet? Get to the store and start sniffng.

A Field Guide To Modern Florals

English

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