Class Act
Wallpaper|September 2023
Gucci's high-tech training school and testing laboratory in Tuscany combines craft and science to shape the future of sustainable design
By Scarlett Conlon
Class Act

It's a bright and sunny afternoon in Scandicci, a short 8km drive from the centre of Florence. Filled with FedEx vans, busy roundabouts and industrial warehouses, the bustling suburban hub stands in stark contrast with the Tuscan capital and its cultural landmarks, but for one conspicuous structure: Gucci Art Lab. With its vibrant 10mhigh murals, the sprawling 37,000 sq m space is as unmissable as the statue of David - apt, given that a large-scale fashion anatomy is taking place.

Inside, artisan Fabio is adding volume to shoe lasts with putty before smoothing the surface by hand and checking how the light falls from every angle; Maurizio is finishing off a new-season diamanté loafer by joining its upper to its insole with precise hammer action; and Claudio is moving bamboo slowly over the naked flame of a Bunsen burner before bending it to achieve a perfect curved handle.

In adjacent laboratories, scientists and state-of-the-art robotics are working in tandem, testing soon-to-be cult bags for elastic-band fatigue and zip reliability. Treadmills are taking a pair of heels for a long-distance walk to calculate their durability, and a holdall is being checked for colour transfer using an automated mannequin that has been bopping on the spot, non-stop, for a couple of days.

This story is from the September 2023 edition of Wallpaper.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the September 2023 edition of Wallpaper.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM WALLPAPERView All
Role Models - Elmgreen & Dragset's subversive take on the classical form at Paris' Musée d'Orsay explores contemporary masculinities in a heteronormative world
Wallpaper

Role Models - Elmgreen & Dragset's subversive take on the classical form at Paris' Musée d'Orsay explores contemporary masculinities in a heteronormative world

As Elmgreen & Dragset, Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset bring a smart subversion to their large-scale installations. Over the last three decades, they have taken a sideways look at social and political systems by recontextualising mainstream motifs: works have included a full-scale replica of a Prada boutique in the Texan desert and a vast, vertical swimming pool, now installed in Hong Kong.

time-read
5 mins  |
November 2024
Flask Force - A limited-edition perfume collaboration between two Spanish craft masters says it with flowers
Wallpaper

Flask Force - A limited-edition perfume collaboration between two Spanish craft masters says it with flowers

Loewe and Lladró are two brands with a lot in common. They're both Spanish, they're both born out of an obsessive desire to master a particular material (Loewe with leather and Lladró with porcelain), and they're both exemplars of luxury design. So it seems fitting, then, that the two maisons have finally come together for an exceptional collaboration, launching this autumn: a limited-edition run of porcelain flask toppers for three of Loewe Perfumes' classic scents.

time-read
3 mins  |
October 2024
Bloom Service - A flower-shaped brutalist beauty in Geneva gets a refresh
Wallpaper

Bloom Service - A flower-shaped brutalist beauty in Geneva gets a refresh

Tucked between the extensive campus of Geneva's University Hospital and a huddle of associated medical institutions, laboratories and surgeries, the Avenue de la Roseraie is trod by few casual visitors to the Swiss city. And yet here - out of sight in a small car park is an extraordinary structure that, situated elsewhere, would surely draw the attention of architectural students like bees to a nectar-rich flower. Horticulturalists, too, perhaps, for whom a building nicknamed La Tulipe might well incite curiosity.

time-read
4 mins  |
October 2024
Second Nature -A remodelled museum in Lisbon, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, meshes Japanese and Portuguese influences to create a space that sits in harmony with its surroundings
Wallpaper

Second Nature -A remodelled museum in Lisbon, by Kengo Kuma & Associates, meshes Japanese and Portuguese influences to create a space that sits in harmony with its surroundings

The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation's complex in Lisbon has been one of the city's best-loved landmarks since it opened in the 1960s. The foundation aims to improve quality of life through art, charity, science and education, and its Lisbon campus encompasses a main office, library, scientific research centre and contemporary art museum, Centro de Arte Moderna (CAM), which reopens this month following an extensive four-year renovation by Japanese studio Kengo Kuma & Associates. Designed in collaboration with landscape architect Vladimir Djurovic, the update cleverly reconfigures the space and extends the foundation's gardens to craft a more cohesive relationship between the existing structures.

time-read
3 mins  |
October 2024
Cane and Able- Fusing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary vision, design studio Ibuku demonstrates the versatility of bamboo at a serene Bali villa
Wallpaper

Cane and Able- Fusing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary vision, design studio Ibuku demonstrates the versatility of bamboo at a serene Bali villa

Over the last decade, Bali-based studio Ibuku, headed up by designer Elora Hardy, has become a leading expert in bamboo architecture, its output encompassing everything from a traditional Sumbanese house and a yoga and meditation space to playful treehouses and a riverside café at an eco-friendly jungle retreat in Ubud. In 2021, the studio completed The Arc sports hall at the Green School in Bali (founded by Elora's father, designer John Hardy). Made from a series of arches spanning an impressive 19m, it was a pioneering feat of bamboo engineering.

time-read
2 mins  |
October 2024
Guest Editor Marcio Kogan - Marcio Kogan has been prolific since setting up his namesake studio in São Paulo in 1978 (it was renamed Studio MK27 at the turn of the century).
Wallpaper

Guest Editor Marcio Kogan - Marcio Kogan has been prolific since setting up his namesake studio in São Paulo in 1978 (it was renamed Studio MK27 at the turn of the century).

Marcio Kogan has been prolific since setting up his namesake studio in São Paulo in 1978 (it was renamed Studio MK27 at the turn of the century). The 72-year-old architect has since become synonymous with contemporary Brazilian chic, offering a sumptuous blend of raw, textured materials; clean geometric forms; effortless functionality; vernacular design features; and a deep knowledge and appreciation of the rich, tropical modernist architecture legacy of his home country.

time-read
10+ mins  |
October 2024
DREAM TEAM
Wallpaper

DREAM TEAM

A rewatching of a seminal film laid the foundation for JW Anderson's latest collection, a fantastical collaboration with artist Christiane Kubrick

time-read
4 mins  |
November 2024
Commercial artists
Wallpaper

Commercial artists

We conjure up public spaces that look and feel good, taking our design cues from the domestic landscape

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024
LINES OF BEAUTY
Wallpaper

LINES OF BEAUTY

Massimo Giorgetti's new rug collection for CC-Tapis takes Milan's 1960s metro system as a departure point

time-read
3 mins  |
November 2024
Cloud pleaser
Wallpaper

Cloud pleaser

Blue-sky thinking elevates a purpose-built gallery for the Froehlich Foundation's art collection near Stuttgar

time-read
2 mins  |
November 2024