Grill power

A legendary Mayfair dining spot is back and firing on all cylinders

With three of London’s most iconic luxury hotels in its portfolio (Claridge’s, The Connaught and The Berkeley), the Maybourne Hotel Group is proof that good things come in small packages. Founded by Belfast-born businessman Paddy McKillen in 2004, the company is now mostly owned by the Qatari royal family, though McKillen still has a substantial investment, personally guiding the development of each of the properties. His tactic has been to appoint a star-studded list of designers, architects and chefs for a number of projects, from a new façade at The Berkeley by RSHP, to Pierre Yovanovitch’s recent refresh of Hélène Darroze at The Connaught (shortlisted in this year’s Wallpaper* Design Awards).

But there was one project close to McKillen’s heart that demanded a particularly deft design touch – the revival of the Connaught’s legendary Grill Room. Originally opened in 1955, the restaurant soon became a hotspot for London’s great and good, its legendary reputation reinforced by its discretion – no roll-call of notable regulars has ever been made public. The food was the main draw, overseen by the hotel’s then-head chef, Michel Bourdin, who, from 1975 to 2000, served up classics from roasts to pies, as well as the famous oeuf en surprise au Connaught, a boiled egg, wrapped in ham and aspic, topped with truffle and caviar. ‘To revive a restaurant with such a great legacy was a decision we didn’t take lightly,’ says McKillen. ‘We wanted to do it right, with the best people, the best design and the best materials, so the restaurant will have a legacy of its own in future years.’