A Walk On The Mild Side

The search for a languid Winelands’ escape should turn up some hidden gems and a pearl, too

No-one’s complaining about the wealth of fine-dining options and must-see sights in the Cape Winelands, but there’s an art to knowing when, and precisely where, to kick back and take a breather. Ask those in the know about whether Paarl’s centre will ever acquire the tourist-magnet status of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, and you’ll find that opinions are mixed: on the topic of whether this would be desirable as well as whether it’s likely to ever happen. Residents aren’t troubled that no discussion of their town’s tourism seems to take place without a mention of its nearby neighbours: hardly the road less travelled, the city’s main street is the longest in South Africa and described with civic pride as ‘a working street’ as it facilitates the viticultural process and smells richly of grapes throughout the season.

If the only architecture you associate with Paarl is the Taal Monument – and yes, you must visit this grandiose meeting of linguistic evolution and ardent nationalism – then take some time to wander the town on foot. Whether with a tour guide or a map, you’ll uncover a layered and deeply political history of Cape Dutch, Victorian and Art Deco architecture, as well as everything in-between, caught in the Anglo-Afrikaans struggle for dominance of the last few centuries.

Where to Stay