<img src="https://magarticles.magzter.com/articles/8469/333575/5c88a218f3ef1/1552458113744.jpg"" owidth=494 oheight=291" style="height:353px; width:600px" />Acabo de hacer un largo viaje por India, un pa&iacute;s que est&aacute; cambiando a velocidad de v&eacute;rtigo. Su crecimiento econ&oacute;mico r&eacute;cord transforma el paisaje y las costumbres. La pobreza extrema se ha reducido notablemente; la contaminaci&oacute;n ha aumentado. Las ciudades son un hervidero de actividad, con obras por doquier: puentes elevados, t&uacute;neles, l&iacute;neas de metro, rascacielos&hellip; No hay respeto a los monumentos hist&oacute;ricos. Pero a&uacute;n hay sitios que resisten los embates del tiempo. Son los lugares santos de tres grandes religiones: el sijismo, el jainismo y el hinduismo.El Templo de Oro, en Amritsar, al norte del pa&iacute;s, es el &ldquo;Vaticano&rdquo; del sijismo, una religi&oacute;n que sigue la m&aacute;xima de su fundador, el gur&uacute; Nanak: &ldquo;es religioso quien considera a todos los hombres como sus iguales.&rdquo; Hoy, ese esp&iacute;ritu se siente al entrar en el recinto sagrado, que es como entrar en un cuento antiguo. Los hombres lucen largas barbas, turbantes de colores y florecientes bigotes. Circulan junto a sus mujeres e hijos alrededor del estanque sagrado y hacen fila para entrar en el templo cubierto de l&aacute;minas de oro, para ver c&oacute;mo un anciano orea con un abanico de cola de yak los versos del manuscrito original del libro santo de los sijs.El ambiente de serenidad es sobrecogedor. Los sijs llevan siglos luchando contra la discriminaci&oacute;n, el maltrato a las mujeres y la desigualdad. Hoy en d&iacute;a, el s&iacute;mbolo de su &eacute;xito lo representa la trastienda del Templo de Oro, donde un ej&eacute;rcito de voluntarios cocina 24 horas al d&iacute;a para dar de comer a quien lo pida.Palitana es el santuario que todo jainista espera visitar por lo menos una vez en la vida. Para llegar a la cumbre hay que subir cuatro kil&oacute;metros de escalinatas. Si el viajero se cansa, solo tiene que recurrir a los porteadores que van detr&aacute;s, con sillas y palanquines, y disfrutar de un panorama magn&iacute;fico. Al llegar arriba, uno se queda boquiabierto frente a esta ciudad de templos, llena de shikharas, torres medio ovales que se yerguen sobre capillas, en el fondo de las cuales brillan las luces de las divinidades. Hay 863 santuarios, algunos peque&ntilde;&iacute;simos, otros imponentes como el templo de Adinath, el principal. Huele a flores. El credo de esta religi&oacute;n est&aacute; basado en el culto a 24 divinidades y al respeto absoluto a todas las formas de vida. Tanto que son vegetarianos estrictos, y algunos fundamentalistas avanzan barriendo el suelo por delante para no aplastar insectos. Otros llevan m&aacute;scaras para no trag&aacute;rselos inadvertidamente.El tercer sitio es Benar&eacute;s, la ciudad santa del hinduismo, que desde los albores de la historia atrae a hombres ansiosos de eternidad. En el &uacute;ltimo a&ntilde;o, un &ldquo;plan de embellecimiento&rdquo; propulsado por el actual gobierno municipal, est&aacute; destruyendo el centro, el alma de la ciudad. Pero todav&iacute;a hoy se puede disfrutar de los amaneceres de Varanasi (el nombre indio de la ciudad), cuando el velo de bruma se disipa y multitudes de fieles hind&uacute;es bajan los pelda&ntilde;os de los ghats, esas escaleras monumentales de piedra que se hunden en las orillas del Ganges. La mayor&iacute;a de los peregrinos han caminado durante semanas para venir a sumergirse en estas aguas sagradas y purificar as&iacute; su cuerpo y su alma. Esperan la renovaci&oacute;n del milagro diario, la aparici&oacute;n del sol, fuente de la vida. Cuando su aureola despunta en el horizonte, las cabezas se giran fervorosamente. Para agradecer el milagro, los fieles le hacen al sol una ofrenda de agua del Ganges, dej&aacute;ndola correr lentamente entre las manos entreabiertas. Pocos espect&aacute;culos en el mundo son comparables con esta visi&oacute;n de Benar&eacute;s al alba. Los templos y los santuarios, los ashrams y los palacios que bordean el r&iacute;o refulgen al sol naciente y se reflejan en las aguas. La ciudad se extiende en una sola orilla, sobre la cual los maraj&aacute;s, a lo largo de los siglos, han edificado una serie de pabellones y palacetes, aut&eacute;nticos centros de la fe, hoy amenazados de destrucci&oacute;n por el ansia constructora y la borrachera del desarrollismo.

India Antes Del Futuro

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