Holy Ground

Cornwall contains many idyllic churches, in beautiful settings, rich in folklore and history and what better time to celebrate them than Christmas, asks Hazel Sillver.

- Hazel Sillver

According to local lore, Christianity first arrived in Cornwall when Jesus was brought here by Joseph of Arimathea. Whether that is true or not, the religion certainly arrived in the 4th or 5th century and gradually superseded the old Celtic traditions as the region’s main belief system. There are endless old churches to explore in Cornwall, many of them in scenic, remote settings: such as the church at Towednack nestled amid the West Penwith moor and St Winwaloe’s on the Lizard peninsula, where the sound of the ocean echoes down the aisle. Seek them out on winter walks or for Christmas carol services to celebrate the season. Here are some of the best.

ST JUST’S, ST JUST IN ROSELAND

This enchanting church appears to float on the water it sits beside, so no wonder John Betjeman described it as ‘the most beautiful churchyard on earth’. The 13th century church is situated in gardens on a tidal creek, on the site of a 6th century Celtic chapel. According to legend, Joseph of Arimathea brought Christ to this part of Cornwall.

Services are held at 11am every Sunday. Carols will be sung by candlelight on 19 December at 7pm.

St Just in Roseland TR2 5JD

ST SENARA’S, ZENNOR

A church has stood on this site since the 6th century, said to have been founded by St Senara, a Breton princess who was visited by an angel and gave birth in the sea. Look out for the medieval chair that depicts the Mermaid of Zennor and the tombstone dedicated to a ‘henpecked husband’. The village pub serves good food and there are stunning walks, either along the coast or up to the Logan Stone on the moor. Towednack church is close by and well worth a visit.