WRITTEN IN THE STARS: HOW SIMON KIM WAS DESTINED TO CREATE MICHELIN STAR–WORTHY RESTAURANTS

Restaurateur Simon Kim is bringing fun and fire to the American steakhouse by merging it with Korean barbeque, creating an authentic brand representative of who he is

- ESTELLE ZENTIL

Thick slabs of shadowy marble with faint, creamy veins that double as tables; elegant, earthy artwork of obscure, mysterious shapes; and rich, dark-green walls make it clear that Cote is a restaurant that takes itself seriously. But not too seriously — overlooking the dining room is an oversized pink neon sign of Cote’s Korean flower logo, which reassures diners that they’re allowed to have a bit of fun with their dinner. This original combination, rare among Michelin-starred restaurants, only seems paradoxical, though, until you meet Cote’s founder and owner, Simon Kim.

Speaking with Kim makes an impression. He is extremely articulate, with a manner of speaking that is more akin to an old friend than a restaurateur, a characteristic enhanced by the nostalgic, soothing tones of his voice. Grace, integrity and purpose were behind every word he spoke. But just as naturally, Kim made me feel at ease with his lightheartedness; he may be the only Michelin restaurateur to identify “fire, beef and booze” as the secret ingredients to his success.