Overshadowed by the countries that surround it, Slovenia—known more as Melania Trump’s country of origin—is also a wine lover’s sacred paradise.
“I don’t eat my workers, and they know it.” Biodynamic winemaker Radovan Šuman says while introducing me to his staff—ducks and sheep. It’s another memorable moment from my short tour of one of the most fascinating wine countries in Europe—Slovenia.
In the space of a few days and a few hundred miles, I have seen and tasted the world of wine. I have indulged in some of the best dry white wines in the world—pure expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Traminer. I have tried their funky counterparts—Sauvignon Blancs that have been made for ageing, Pinot Gris that are pinker than most rosé wines, Traminers kept for 18 years in oak barrels, and white wines where the grapes have been macerated for more than a year.
I have drunk world-class reds made from Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Barbera grapes. I also had great examples of lesser-known grape varieties such as Furmint, Rebula, Pinela, Zelen, Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. And I’ve savoured some of the most unusual and complex blends too. A field blend called Zaria is single-handedly saving some of the country’s oldest white grapes: 55 per cent Pinela, 20 per cent Zelen, 10 per cent Rebula, eight per cent Vitovska, four per cent Klarnica, 2 per cent Chardonnay, and one per cent Rumeni Muškat. And there is a red wine made from 50 per cent Pokalca (Schioppettino), 30 per cent Modra Frankinja (Blaufränkisch) and 20 per cent Refošk (Refosco).
I have consumed wine from huge stainless steel tanks, barriques, cement eggs and amphorae. I’ve seen modern wineries built into hills, cellars that date back to 1239 and caves carved out by hand. I’ve been to the world’s oldest grapevine and another one that survived phylloxera because its roots were inside a house. I’ve also seen swathes of new plantings on stunning terraced slopes.
This story is from the Volume 5 Issue 2 edition of Eat Stay Love.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Sign In
This story is from the Volume 5 Issue 2 edition of Eat Stay Love.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Sign In
the guide
hostelries to bed in and where to eat in cusco, lima and moray.
William Dalrymple's Rajasthan
The celebrated writer and historian on his love affair with the state known for its vibrant colours, royal splendour and cultural riches.
Jodhpur's Enigmatic Maharaj
Raghavendra Rathore in conversation with Riaan Jacob George.
The Ambassadress Of Indian Block Prints
Les Indiennes, a quaint store in Hudson’s shopping district, reworks India’s centuries-old legacy of handmade Kalamkari for a global consumer.
The Secret Islands Of Africa
ESL falls off the map to explore the unbelievably wild and breathtakingly gorgeous islands of the African continent.
Slovenia's Wine Revolution
Overshadowed by the countries that surround it, Slovenia—known more as Melania Trump’s country of origin—is also a wine lover’s sacred paradise.
Pune Sibling Revelry
Mumbai may be the cooler cousin, but Pune is fast catching up on the ‘cool’ factor in its culinary offerings.
a scientist in the kitchen
the next time you are in london, drop in at the fat duck and order the sound of the sea. accompanying your seafood dish is an earphone to hear sounds of seagulls cawing and waves lapping. at dinner by heston, melbourne, the experience includes walking through a tunnel that smells of a bespoke fragrance. that’s how whimsical chef blumenthal’s dining experiences are.
hong kong koko
the tony bar and restaurant offers a skillful spin on the izakayas, or the informal japanese gastropubs.
Katy Perry
I have milti-personality disorder when it comes to my fashion choices.