A Virtuoso Chef Whose Time Has Come
Esquire US|April - May 2023
At Tatiana, Kwame Onwuachi has drawn inspiration from New York City's history, and his own roots, to create one of America's best Afro-Caribbean restaurants and Manhattan's hottest reservation
By Jeff Gordinier
A Virtuoso Chef Whose Time Has Come

The oxtails take forever. Four days, really, but the process of preparing and cooking them has so many steps that you lose track when chef Kwame Onwuachi tries to explain it.

Better to go down into the basement kitchen beneath Tatiana, Onwuachi's new Afro-Caribbean restaurant in New York City's beloved hub of the performing arts, Lincoln Center, and see for yourself. Over here, cook Jamal Lewis mixes up a Caribbean-inflected marinade-fresh bay leaves and cinnamon and allspice and a ginger-garlic paste and some of Onwuachi's grandfather's hot sauce. Over there, Onwuachi dips a spoon into a cauldron in which vegetables and roasted chickens and hundreds of chicken feet boil and bob for hours as they're rendered into gelatinous, deeply flavored stock. The oxtails soak in the marinade for 24 hours. They're seared. They're braised in the stock. Eventually they're served in a pond of funky, fatty, gleaming sauce that is the result of these flavors combining, converging, cooking down. The sauce is so sticky that it clings to your fingernails all the way to the next morning, and you can't imagine being mad about that, because it's one of the most delicious things you will ever taste.

Diese Geschichte stammt aus der April - May 2023-Ausgabe von Esquire US.

Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.

Diese Geschichte stammt aus der April - May 2023-Ausgabe von Esquire US.

Starten Sie Ihre 7-tägige kostenlose Testversion von Magzter GOLD, um auf Tausende kuratierte Premium-Storys sowie über 8.000 Zeitschriften und Zeitungen zuzugreifen.

WEITERE ARTIKEL AUS ESQUIRE USAlle anzeigen
hasan minhaj had a very strange year
Esquire US

hasan minhaj had a very strange year

The comedian felt the wrath of the Internet AND lost a career-defining job opportunity. NOW he's back with an interview series, A NEW NETFLIX SPECIAL, and a fresh perspective on his COMEDY.

time-read
4 Minuten  |
October/November 2024
the perfect girl friend
Esquire US

the perfect girl friend

Flirty, sexy, seductive, supportive. Your AI companion can be whatever you want her to be. And now a growing number of men are turning to bots to ease their loneliness or satisfy their kinks. The choices are endless. The emotions are real.

time-read
10+ Minuten  |
October/November 2024
thinker
Esquire US

thinker

Andrew Garfield has big ideas about life and death-even a theory about the nature of time. Over an afternoon at one of his favorite New York City haunts, the actor let us into his world.

time-read
10+ Minuten  |
October/November 2024
priceless
Esquire US

priceless

At Hermès, Axel de Beaufort will make whatever you imagine. Its value can be measured not in dollars but in the hours spent crafting it and the beauty it adds to the world.

time-read
9 Minuten  |
October/November 2024
shoes with staying power
Esquire US

shoes with staying power

The Shannon lace-up from Church's is a study in enduring style

time-read
1 min  |
October/November 2024
THE MIDLIFE CRISIS? TRY THE THREEQUARTER-LIFE QUANDARY.
Esquire US

THE MIDLIFE CRISIS? TRY THE THREEQUARTER-LIFE QUANDARY.

Black men's life expectancy is short, thanks to history. At 49, am I on the downslope?

time-read
6 Minuten  |
October/November 2024
HOW THE DEMOCRATS GOT THEIR GROOVE BACK
Esquire US

HOW THE DEMOCRATS GOT THEIR GROOVE BACK

They've been flinching ever since Reagan, but the party has finally figured out who they are.

time-read
5 Minuten  |
October/November 2024
WRITTEN ON THE BODY
Esquire US

WRITTEN ON THE BODY

As we age, we're fighting a losing battle against memory. Maybe that's why, in my 40s, I've tattooed myself with everything I can't bear to forget.

time-read
5 Minuten  |
October/November 2024
I Wore This Jacket to Death. Now It's Even Better.
Esquire US

I Wore This Jacket to Death. Now It's Even Better.

Menswear designer Aaron Levine, who helped revitalize brands like Abercrombie & Fitch and Club Monaco, explains why he reaches for his Carhartt again and again and again

time-read
1 min  |
October/November 2024
Check Yourself
Esquire US

Check Yourself

Todd Snyder and Woolrich have teamed up to create a new breed of wearable luxury fashion. The iconic buffalo plaid remains a staple.

time-read
2 Minuten  |
October/November 2024