The Rose-tinted View Of The Irani Café
Man's World|August 2018

Serving up dollops of nostalgia isn’t enough to make up for deteriorating food and appalling service.

Arnesh Ghose
The Rose-tinted View Of The Irani Café

Like everybody who went to college in South Mumbai, I speak very affectionately of Kyani’s, Sassanian and B. Merwan’s, legendary Irani cafes the lot of them. The food was always cheap and wholesome, they had the Coffee House vibe that college students craved (this was before CCD and Starbucks wiped out the last dregs of Communism and became the new watering holes – this is obviously the Calcutta boy in me talking) and the spaces were friendly and had a personality of their own. They were unassuming, didn’t try to fit in, exuded an old world charm and held on to a slice of the city that was fast disappearing. You came back for the friendly old Parsi uncle, the sweet chai and most importantly, the food.

Kyani’s Chicken Cheese Bhurji with Maska Pav was the stuff orgasms were made of (I have personally been asked to moan at a lower volume on three occasions by the wait staff). I have dragged friends from Borivali and Thane to Kyani’s, promising to change their lives forever. The Chicken Cheese Bhurji used to be a cheesy-buttery-creamy mash of chicken, eggs, onions and tomatoes, pulped to perfection with butter and generous helpings of cheese and subtle pinches of spices and seasoning. It was divine. The Chicken Cutlets were fantastic, too. Have the Lagan nu Custard and the freshly baked muffins, I would tell my companions. Sassanian used to serve excellent Farchas and Croquettes and Merwan’s always ruled the Mawa Cake market. There was Britannia too, but that Berry Pulao was straight up weird – I don’t care if all of you gasp in unison right now, I am going to say it: berries and mutton don’t make a great combination – and it’s expensive. I was never a fan. Also, I am from Calcutta. We have Anglophilic old men talking about their love for the British royal family by the bucketful there.

This story is from the August 2018 edition of Man's World.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

This story is from the August 2018 edition of Man's World.

Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 9,000+ magazines and newspapers.

MORE STORIES FROM MAN'S WORLDView All
Rekha At 70 The Enduring Mystique
Man's World

Rekha At 70 The Enduring Mystique

More than a generation after she was last seen on screen, the mystique that she successfully wrapped herself in continues to serve her well in the public imagination. Her fleeting public appearances in dazzling silk sarees and makeup continue to beguile the camera in the same manner it did at the peak of her career

time-read
7 mins  |
October 2024
iPhone Fatigue
Man's World

iPhone Fatigue

Do we really need an annual Apple flagship release?

time-read
5 mins  |
October 2024
Men's Guide To Combat Premature Hair Loss
Man's World

Men's Guide To Combat Premature Hair Loss

Male pattern baldness hit men at an early age, at times in late 30s and early 40s. We asked the experts the reason behind it, treatments that can help, and factors to take care of

time-read
5 mins  |
October 2024
SMRITI MANDHANA MAKES CRICKET LOOK EASY
Man's World

SMRITI MANDHANA MAKES CRICKET LOOK EASY

In conversation with Man's World for Hyundai Drive Within campaign, the stylish Indian batter talks about her craft, evolution, and her thoughts on women's cricket

time-read
6 mins  |
October 2024
Pritam Hitting The High Note
Man's World

Pritam Hitting The High Note

A National Award for Brahmastra: Part One Shiva this year and songs that continue to clock millions of streams, Pritam Chakraborty proves why he's one of the most acclaimed Hindi Film music directors of our time

time-read
10 mins  |
October 2024
JEMIMAH RODRIGUES IS HAVING THE TIME OF HER LIFE
Man's World

JEMIMAH RODRIGUES IS HAVING THE TIME OF HER LIFE

In conversation with Man's World as a part of Hyundai Drive Within campaign, Jemimah Rodrigues take us through the drive within her that inspires her to be the best in her business.

time-read
5 mins  |
October 2024
SHAFALI VERMA IN A LEAGUE OF HER OWN
Man's World

SHAFALI VERMA IN A LEAGUE OF HER OWN

In conversation with Man's World India as a part of the Hyundai Drive Within campaign, Shafali Verma opens up about her historic double century, her fearless brand of cricket, and more

time-read
6 mins  |
October 2024
Hands Onl Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver's Watch SPB455 100th Anniversary Edition
Man's World

Hands Onl Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver's Watch SPB455 100th Anniversary Edition

Seiko's 100th anniversary of the first watch to bear its name brought an exciting addition to its famed Prospex collection; a timepiece that pays homage to the brand's iconic history while embracing modern ideas of versatile wearability

time-read
2 mins  |
October 2024
WATCHES ON THE WILD SIDE ATYPICAL CASE DESIGNS
Man's World

WATCHES ON THE WILD SIDE ATYPICAL CASE DESIGNS

Horology isn't just about precision. It's also about understanding the rules of perception-and sometimes, taking a sledgehammer to them

time-read
7 mins  |
October 2024
Denim The Timeless Trendsetter
Man's World

Denim The Timeless Trendsetter

Crystal Henricksen, Head of Denim Design at GAP, shares with us what makes the fabric simple, versatile, and timeless

time-read
6 mins  |
October 2024