Good food can be found at the Lobster Club, once you tune out the midtown party crowd.
LIKE THE LAST VOLUME of a madcap fantasy series, or a trio of glitzy, newly revived operas, the Lobster Club, which opened a few months ago in midtown, represents the third and final installment of what future restaurant historians may well call “the Seagram Saga.” As anyone who’s followed the Major Food Group’s rapid-fire launching of the Grill (last spring) and the Pool (last summer) in the former Four Seasons space in the Seagram Building knows, the saga has been filled with endless drama (the tossing to the curb of the old regime by the building’s landlord, Aby Rosen) and pageantry (those $2,000 tuxedos at the Grill). The cost has been insane ($32 million and counting), the cast of thousands entertaining (at one point, even Picasso was involved), and like lots of grandiose, ambitiously creative projects, no matter what you think of the end result, it seems like a bit of a miracle that it ever happened at all.
This story is from the February 5–18, 2018 edition of New York magazine.
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This story is from the February 5–18, 2018 edition of New York magazine.
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